The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Quadrajet Carb Choke Falls Apart

I have been having a bit of trouble keeping the actuating shaft for the choke firmly inserted, it tends to back out and disengage the choke, rendering it rather useless, and requiring a lot of time and effort to re set the choke controls. Does anyone know if there is a retaining collar or pin for this, or was it a "best of luck" approach?

[img]https://drive.google.com/open?id=19IzpN05UJNqEyHNBgBqqmBu2inQtKvtB[/img]

[img]https://drive.google.com/open?id=17oVHUBr6U1SOx61qiuMB3EZxC_JvpucS[/img]

That is not an original equipment choke. The carburetor you have is intended to have a divorced choke, and it appears that the manifold you're using is not compatible with the carb. You're kind of on your own trying to make that Rube Goldberg rig work.
Jerry

I agree with Jerry, you have what I call a older mechanical type choke on the carburetor. A newer Q-jet or different car make will have the thermostatic type choke you are trying to get to work. With the right pieces, you should be able to swap the whole choke assembly to one that will work for you. What you have now will not.

The manifold didn't come with a tapped hole for the divorced choke, I had to tap the pre drilled hole. Otherwise, the manifold supports divorced. I decided on an electric variant of the divorced, it supposedly works the same way, but uses electricity. It seems to want to fall out, yes, but that is a secondary issue.

That isn't the problem though, the issue I am referring to is the entire choke assembly can be pulled out of, and off of the carb with only a little wiggling. I am not exaggerating, I can dismantle my complete fast idle/ choke control by pulling the choke connecting plate (see image) straight out the passenger side.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1TKE0cPWV7T_G0Nm3GmgTl_MaCPKCMZxJ

The first order of the day would be to determine WHY it is coming apart. As Bart mentioned in the post above, looks like the screw holding the choke pull-off bracket is incorrect. The flat head screw is REQUIRED to properly center the choke pull-off bracket, and maintain its geometry.

Once you get that fixed, you might wish to give some consideration to using a heat activated divorced choke rather than an electric. This would be especially true if you plan to drive the vehicle with an ambient of below 60 degrees F, and having an automatic transmission.

Automatic chokes

I thought the only automatic choke worse than a divorced choke would be an electric choke; but combining the two makes it much worse. I would rather have no choke than that combination

Jon.

Sorry I haven't posted an update, I have been so busy I still haven't tinkered with the carb. I did manage to get some screws to try out, but I intend on working on it tomorrow. I have been working 10 hr days with a 3 hr daily drive, on top of all the usual BS I inevitably need to deal with. Heck, I bought a house in June, I still haven't moved in.

Well, trying screws out hasn't worked, I see a shoulder that would allow me to hold it captive, is there a clip of some kind to pinch the shaft bearing sleeve to the plate? I am shooting in the dark, Apparently my carb lost parts before I got it.

Do a Google search for an exploded view of the carb you're working on, using the GM part number stamped on it as a reference. Since there's only around 200 variations of Q-Jet carbs over a 30-something year production run, you're bound to find a diagram eventually that matches what you've got. That way you can figure out what's missing.
Jerry

At some point you just have to say enough is enough. There are hundreds of thousands of q-jets to be had. Finda complete one that suits your purpose and kit it. Install it and drive on worry free.🛠

I have Rochester diagrams on most all Rochester carburetors, if you get the number off the drivers side rear of the carburetor, I can post the diagram so you can point out the parts you are having trouble with. With out the 7 or 8 digit number, we can't really help you much.

I figured out the problem. The brass sleeve that the choke controls pivot in was glued on, and the glue broke, causing everything to slide around and fall apart. Rather than try and glue it again, I decided to cut a sheet of copper, solder it to the brass rod, and hold the copper down with the same screw that holds the entire mess together. I drove the truck into town and back, and I am happy to report no further choke problems.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1t6BbLdN5c65e_BzfnkvcZjQltVadBTv4

As an added bonus, because I couldn't be bothered to make it look clean, the copper plate also doubles as a retainer for my electric choke rod, eliminating the need for a clip retainer. Quite convenient. Is mine special in having been glued? I have a second carb, and the sleeve looks more pressed in than glued on.

Well dang, MacGyver. What do you need us for? Did you do all of that with a Swiss Army Knife and a paperclip like on your old TV show?

I ask you guys because I'm smart enough to realize I'm too stupid to try this on my own. Also, just in case there is a easy solution I don't need to overthink to get through.

I am tickled to death that you figured it out. Those types of problems, where someone else slung parts together wrong can make a guy pull his hair out (ear hair in my case).