The rear spare tire bracket more than likely hung on two stud (with big wing nuts) that attached to the side of the frame rails (that's the way it is on the TF trucks).
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
Do take all necessary precautions while handling/cleaning animal waste/ mice pee/poop. You don't want the hantavirus.
As much as I love old Chevy trucks, frankly there's not much left to love with that one. Major mechanical parts, body panels, hired body work, hired mechanical work, all the small stuff, etc... add up over time. The best advice I ever heard as it relates to any old car/truck, collector vehicle... is buy the best example of what you want that you can afford. Dragging one home from the fencerow is kinda romantic, but usually takes too long and cost too much.
Of course I'm just some guy with a keyboard. It's your truck. Do what you want to do - but do it safely.
What terms do you use when searching for a 235 on like a Craigslist or searchtempest or something like that. I don’t have much luck searching Craigslist. I usually use like Chevy 235 of Chevy 235 engine or something along those lines.
The current owner might not know what a 235 is, that is working against you. You might try "Chevrolet 6 cylinder" with the years you are interested in. You might have to buy an entire or partial vehicle.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally 1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
I like ecklers classic Chevy for parts and they have books as well. The shop manual and user manual are very informative and worth having. The engine size however is difficult given you're not very good on the internet, the best way is to find the serial number stamped on the block behind the distributor and look it up on the Web. I have been told that if you have the original oil pan, a 235 will have 235 stamped on the side of the oil pan. Another great place for parts is NAPA, at least my local Napa is very informative and usually has what I need in stock. Great looking truck by the way, I have 51 4400.
New question.. it is my understanding that it is not possible to regear the stock rearend. Is that correct? So if I want to keep it a dually is there any certain axle I should be looking for that will fit the best or is it more personal preference? I have been giving every nut and bolt I can see anywhere a blast of pb blaster every week for the last few weeks as well as dosing the cylinders with atf acetone mixture. But I really don’t hold out much hope that my 235 will ever turn again. It’s very possible that the replacement engine will have a few more cylinders than the current engine. I’m hoping to be able to get it into my shop within the next few weeks to begin the diagnosis of what it still serviceable on my truck and begin to firm up my plans a little more
Before answering about regearing you need to know the present ratio. But the answer, even if yes, is still not very fast.
GM used Dana 70HD and Dana 80 axles in later model P30 and similar chassis. These axles from those applications have same bolt pattern (but larger 5.25” center bore). They are also available in useful ratios as well as even faster that you could use. Down side is they only have disc brakes, which then requires swapping to front disc brakes too, so more work and expense.
How do I identify the current gear ratio? There are no plates anywhere I guess I have to wait until I can remove the diff to see. I don’t really want to do a front axle swap too. Wow lots of things I didn’t think of !!!
You can find the gear ratio by counting turns of the driveshaft and wheels, don't need to disassemble anything. First assume it has a standard differential, no locking device. If that is the case (should be for your model) then leave one wheel on the ground, jack up the other and because of the differential action the wheel that turns will turn twice as fast than if both turn. Turn the one wheel 20 times and count turns of the driveshaft. Divide the result by 10 for your gear ratio, for example 61.7 turns of driveshaft is 6.17:1 ratio. Others may advise to only turn the wheel once, or turn both wheels together once.. the method I have described is both easier and more accurate.
Thanks Grigg I have read everything in the big bolt section of the tech tips but probably should reread some of the write ups again. I have no shortage of ideas on what I want to do with my truck. Probably doesn’t help that it’s still sitting behind the barn and not in the shop yet. Soon !!
Jack up one wheel, count driveshaft revolutions vs. axle revolutions to get axle ratio.
Ed
Don't forget to allow for the fact that only one wheel is turning. The spider gears in the differential will cause the driveshaft to turn only half as many turns as if both wheels were turning together.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Does anyone know anything about the early 90’s ups chassis? I found one for sale cheap close to me I’m going to see about looking at it tomorrow. It’s listed as a 1993 ups chassis made by Chevy Dan
It’s a dually. Seller claims it’s a 93 ups chassis and he doesn’t know anything else about it. He’s selling it so cheap a scraper will probably get it before I have a chance to.
Well it is not your original bolt pattern. I'd guess from the small picture that it has 6 lug Budd (stud centered) wheels. Also suspect it is not a GM chassis, not that it matters. Oshoksh and perhaps some others did use that bolt pattern for step van chassis.
Without a good plan already I'd pass on that chassis. Then figure out what you're trying to do with the truck and make a reasonable plan.
Yup I didn’t even get a chance to go see it. I’m not dying to pull the trigger on something I’m more trying to get an idea of what’s available out in my area and what could work. There seems to be no lack of knowledge here on how to identify things and what could work. You guys are great!!! Dan
Well I picked up an engine yesterday. Seller says it’s a 235 I’m not positive yet thou I’ll take some pictures tomorrow and post them. I have to power wash it it is very heavily caked with grease, oil and dirt I did get the serial number by the distributor it is. Gea71700. After I clean it up I will pull the valve cover to get the head numbers and look for any other numbers on it. It was supposedly running when pulled and it had clean green coolant leaking from it when I loaded it up. I’m going to have my starter guy rewire the starter to 12v and get a whole new ignition system before I try starting it as the wires are not in very good condition at all. Any opinions on points vs hei ignition ? Was looking at the Jim carter hei setup but don’t know if it’s necessary.
While it is not necessary by any means, the HEI is a great system, I am a true believer. I put one on a Clark aircraft tug I use to have with a Hercules engine, converted to 12v of course. I did nothing to the starter as it never ran for more than about 5 seconds after the conversion. The conversion made a really useful unit out of the tug, a long way from 6 volt, points starting. If you are going to 12v anyway, the HEI is a no brainer for me. It will be painfully obvious to on-lookers where the 12v would not if you retain the generator. On the tug I just reset the regulator for 12v, didn't change anything else besides the lights and battery.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally 1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
To emphasize the above comment, just use the existing 6 volt starter as is, no 'rewiring for 12 volts' or replacing with a 12 volt starter which also requires a different flywheel.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Yes it is a 2 bolt valve cover. It has a carter w 1 carb on it. Was going to get some better pictures and fine the other numbers but it’s to hot and I worked to late today so hopefully tomorrow I did get the transmission with it also so I have a spare trans and clutch if I ever need them ! I think I’m leaning towards the hei ignition. Anyone have a preferred setup ? I know many just leave the starter setup for 6v but why not get it redone while it’s easy to get at !! My starter guy is also going to rewire the generator for me ! I think I’ll be ordering parts in the next few days. Dan
I believe since it has a 2 bolt valve cover it will be the low pressure 235 as Tim posted. ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
The only change you need to make for the generator to charge a 12v batter is reset the regulator. There are three "relays" inside the housing, a cutout, a current regulator, and a voltage regulator. There will be a screw adjustment or a tab holding the spring on the voltage regulator that you can adjust to set the voltage to just about anything within reason and 14.3 or so for charging should be no problem. All the wires stay the same. With 12v on a 6v system, all the wires are oversized and will carry things more easily, no need to change them.
A web search for "voltage regulator adjustment Chevrolet 6v" hits about 6 threads on this forum. Those instructions work to reset for 12v too.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally 1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
And that my friend is why I love this forum so much. you fellas are a wealth of knowledge!!! I Had no idea it was that easy to change the generator ! I was probably going to pay my starter guy $30 to do it
A meter and a screw driver are all you need for tools usually. They used to make special tools for bending the tab but you can do that with a needle nose pliers. It takes just a touch, very little movement to get where you want to go. At least one of the threads mentions to set the cover carefully in place and check the adjustments, the steel cover does affect the magnetic adjustments.
Last edited by sweepleader; 07/11/20191:15 AM.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally 1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
Does that mean there is no need to get a 12v voltage regulator when changing from a 6v to 12v generator. As long as you changed the 6v voltage regulator setting?
And, I assume you should still polarize the voltage regulator? (as described in the Shop Manual)
Yes, it means the 6v regulator will become a 12v regulator, the 6v gen will work fine on 12v. If the gen is worked on or removed from the vehicle, it should be polarized as the manual describes.
There is no need to change any parts in the charging system.
The ignition system and all other electrical devices will need to be updated. Depending on the ignition system installed, several changes may be necessary, including a ballast resistor, the coil, condenser, starter relay(solenoid). The starter will be fine on 12v but if there is a relay it will need to be compatible with 12v and the ballast resistor wiring. A relay may need to be added to address the ballast resistor issue. If the engine starts fine and is not started in the cold, the relay might not be needed. The condenser and ballast resistor need to be matched to the coil.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally 1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
The power washer and degreaser didn’t really do that much to get my engine cleaned up looks like I may need a case or two of brake cleaner or carb cleaner and some wire brushes to get things cleaned up. I was able to get some of the numbers for the head and block here’s pictures. The head doesn’t have any casting numbers outside of the valve cover ? Why is that ? I also couldn’t find any numbers near the starter on the block maybe I have to remove the starter and clean the grime up better. The grease and oil is so baked on the engine it resembles creosote. The valve train has a lot of sludge buildup. I’m going to clean that up and change the oil and I believe it should start. I’m wondering what oil most of you use ?
However, assuming that is an original code (and, it looks original): GEA = 1949 5000 or 6000 series low-pressure 235 truck engine 717 = should be a number larger than 1000?; but, let's assume it means the 717th 235 out the Flint, MI engine plant in 1949?
I cannot clearly read your head casting codes. head date casting code is under the valve cover. head casting code is outside the valve cover. Please post those two codes-numbers.
Engine Serial Number: 717 = should be a number larger than 1000?; but, let's assume it means the 717th 235 out the Flint, MI engine plant in 1949?[/url]
It looks like 71700 to me...
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
The head casting code is in the proper place on my original seized engine. I’m going to completely clean up the head and valve train tomorrow but I don’t think I’m going to find anything as I’ve scratched around with a scraper and some cleaner looking for the missing casting code. The casting dates of the block and the heads seem to match up but is it possible that this head is a replacement?
