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#1317553 07/13/2019 2:03 AM
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 83
D
Vintage Truck & Tractor
Vintage Truck & Tractor
D Offline
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 83
61 Chevy C20 with 235.. got it out of ther. Dang sure took me alot longer than 45 minutes. Anyway I have a question about connecting rod measurements. The old bari g shells had a stamp on the back side 001 along with some other letters. I assume that means they were .001 oversize . Furthermore, I measured my crank pins. They all ran in the range on 3.308 to 3.309. Spec in the book is 3.311 -3.312. I plastigauged the old bearings clearance and I got .004 to .005. So with that information, what size bearings should I order ? Would the .001 be the size or should I go .002


Current project; 1961 C20, 235 I6
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,835
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,835
If you can find .002" undersize bearings, use them (they're about as scarce as honest politicians). Be absolutely sure the crankshaft journals are round, and not tapered from one end to the other. It's not uncommon to find a journal egg-shaped or tapered, as well as worn undersize. A .001 or .002 under bearing MUST be used against a round, but undersized shaft only- - - - -no tight spots. If you've got the pistons and rods out of the engine, torque up the rods without bearings in them and measure the inside diameter of the big ends with an inside micrometer- - - -even an electronic caliper won't be accurate enough. They should be round, and measure between 2.4367"-2.4372".
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 83
D
Vintage Truck & Tractor
Vintage Truck & Tractor
D Offline
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 83
It's hard to believe but its darn hard to find someone to grind a crankshaft in Mt. So I ordered a crankshaft kit with mains and rod bearings. It actually amounts to about the same money.. I also need a camshaft. How about this " Sealed Power CA 251". Anybody have any recomendations.


Current project; 1961 C20, 235 I6
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 671
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 671
Elgin Industries. Check out part number E-293S. It is there "Corvette " grind cam. Got very good reviews. Worth checking into.


1950 Chevy 3100
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 24
B
New Guy
New Guy
B Offline
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by David C.
It's hard to believe but its darn hard to find someone to grind a crankshaft in Mt.

Where-abouts in MT? Great Falls has a couple places.


Chris

Too many to work on
4 bolts, 2 square bodies, 4 GMT400s...and those are the keepers
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 83
D
Vintage Truck & Tractor
Vintage Truck & Tractor
D Offline
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 83
I am in Miles City. I solved the problem, I bought a crank kit.


Current project; 1961 C20, 235 I6
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
Worn Camshaft bearings will allow low oil pressure, need to be shop installed.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.

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