| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
1 members (klhansen),
160
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,132 Posts1,056,729 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2010 Posts: 43 | I am new to the old hydravac system so bear with me. Pedal in my 57 6100 goes to the floor. It was like this when I bought it. I have ran through the bleeding sequence with both bleeders on hydravac then left rear right rear left front fright front. If I pump really fast I can get enough pedal to hold about 2” off the floor but that’s it. One thing I noticed if I pump them up real good them let off and pull the MC lid off it will sometimes spray fluid up out of the MC. Wasn’t sure if that would be normal? Also the brake fluid will be white, like full of air. What would be a good place to start to try to see if it’s the MC, Hydravac or the dummy working on it. Also, if I would give up and put a newer style power brake setup, is there still a way to operate the two speed rear ended without the hydravac. FYI the truck don’t run at the moment, waiting on a couple parts to come in before I can drop the motor in. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy Wvgearhead, have you adjusted all the brakes up to where they should be? | | | | | Joined: May 2017 Posts: 330 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2017 Posts: 330 | There should be a check valve in the port of the master cylinder that would hold some pressure in the system when you pump it up. Drum brakes have it, discs do not. If the brakes are not adjusted and that valve is working, you should only have to pump it up once and then the pedal should be "normal". After the brakes sit a while, you would have to pump them up again. Sounds to me like that check valve is not working and the adjustment is off like 3B suggested. I don't know of a way to replace the check valve, I think that would be one for a rebuilder. Maybe someone here knows how to do it.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally 1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I would suggest doing the adjustments on all wheels as a starting point. | | | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2010 Posts: 43 | No I haven’t adjusted them. I will give it a go and see what happens. I will let you know what I find. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,994 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,994 | The hyrovac does not control the rear axle 2 speed, if you have a vacume reservoir that would be the only thing in common. While I was rebuilding the brake system on my 5700 I bypassed the hydrovac, I am now using manual brakes with all six wheel cylinders and the master cylinder having rebuild kits and all new cupro-nickel lines and new rubber hoses. You have to adjust the shoes very close, mine stops very well with a solid pedal and no leaks. I doubt it will ever be loaded to 16000 lbs. so for now I'm happy with it.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
| | |
| |
| |