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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,165
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,165
Anyone know what the purpose of the small triangular depression in the floor just outboard of the seat riser would be for besides stiffening the floor a touch? See pics 1 (top) and 2 (bottom).

Anyway, I need to replace that portion of the floor on the driver's side and pics 3-5 show my attempt to create something to form that depression in the patch panel. Took the piece I cut out (the depression was pretty much intact) and stuck a box around it, lined it with painter's plastic tarp and filled the box with epoxy resin and a couple layers of fiberglass fabric. One glitch in the process was that the painter's tarp leaked and stuck the whole mess to my work table. After getting it loose, I think I came up with a reasonable form. Whether it will stand up to hammering the depression in remains to be seen. The fallback position is to cut the original depression out and weld it into the new patch panel, but that's a last resort. Anyone think I'm being too anal about it in trying to reproduce that depression, or have a better suggestion on how to go about it?
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IMG_2286.JPG (193.24 KB, 156 downloads)
IMG_2281.JPG (256.87 KB, 156 downloads)
IMG_2276.JPG (249.23 KB, 149 downloads)
IMG_2277.JPG (256.19 KB, 145 downloads)
IMG_2280.JPG (159.07 KB, 144 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 146
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 146
You're right twice: 1) It's for no other reason than to stiffen the floor, and 2) you are being too anal.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,165
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,165
.... but you could have added to 2) ", but good work in being inventive". grin
I had that can of epoxy resin sitting around for ages and was wondering if it would still set up. Not a big loss if it didn't. We'll see if my form is stout enough.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,204
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,204
I think I would just go with a flat piece of metal and weld a piece of angle underneath for reinforcement. Having a flat floor makes for easier fitting of mat/carpet


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,165
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,165
Originally Posted by Gord&Fran
I think I would just go with a flat piece of metal and weld a piece of angle underneath for reinforcement. Having a flat floor makes for easier fitting of mat/carpet
Not a bad idea. I doubt the small depression would interfere much with mat installation, but I may go that way if my form doesn't work out.
Thanks


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 1,004
2
'Bolter
'Bolter
2 Offline
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 1,004
sometimes its useful to practice being anal about details so that you have experience and motivation later on when it really does matter, even if it's not related to this topic
and if you have fun by all means do so right!?

my goal is to fix my trucks in an authentic manner while trying to keep them mechanically sound,
if someone could and would have done in the 1950s the same fix i'm doing now then i'm not being untrue to the originality of my truck even if it isn't OEM.
however i have a conflicting goal to not destroy originality for future generations
so my home made farmer fixes should be obvious and undoable with the least resistance possible.
-s

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,308
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,308
Call me all of the names which you feel you must, but I would not feel right if those "fancy little swimming pool" divots were not there.
I also like clutch head screws where they belong.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
"Call me all of the names which you feel you must, . . "

You conservative, anal-retentive, purist.

(Will those words do you justice, Carl? I am in the same club, with no apologies.)

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,308
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,308
Originally Posted by tclederman
"Call me all of the names which you feel you must, . . "

You conservative, anal-retentive, purist.

(Will those words do you justice, Carl? I am in the same club, with no apologies.)
Thank you Tim.
I am not accurately described by most of those terms, but I do not offer any apologies for what accurately describes me concerning the topic of the "tiny floor board swimming pools", which falls under the category of "I'm just a weirdo."
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

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