I have a 1958 C60 Viking which was sold as a new truck in the Netherlands in December 1958. besides the impound department of the Dutch tax authority I'm now the second owner. I'm going to build it together with my mate Ferry (yes that's a real name in the Netherlands) here's some pic's [img]https://myalbum.com/photo/sNgo0u1vea2z/1k0.jpg[/img]
Ah great I stand corrected! I'll change it into a '58. On the door post is nothing, the cab is completely burned out. There is a tag in the engine compartment, but I don't think it's the original VIN; CA6C584905 it also has a engine number F527LB, but I couldn't find anything about it.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Here's what I think your numbers tell us...maybe one of the Canadian guys can confirm I got it right as I'm guessing that's where it was made...
Chassis Serial Number (VIN) CA6C584905
CA = Plant (I believe this is a non-USA plant...made for export) 6C = 6500 Series (174.5" wheelbase) 58 = year 4905 = unit number
Engine Serial Number F527LB
F = Flint 5 = Month (May) 27 = Day L = 261 6-cylinder B = ??? look at this letter again, could it be an "E"? This letter indicated what RPO's were added to your truck.
Did your truck come with an automatic transmission or Air Over Hydraulic Brakes?
Hy Steve-W, Mike B and guys, I did check my 1958 through 62 parts book just to be sure, but that is not a Canadian serial number, our serial numbers begin with the last digit of the year. Beginning in 1958 a letter was added at the end of the serial number, this indicated which g.v.w. range your truck was in, hope that helps.
As far as I can tell it’s manual gearbox and what do I look for to identify the Air over Hydraulic brakes?
Is there a compressor mounted to the engine? In the picture of your engine bay I cannot see clearly but it doesn't look like there is. If there is a direct linkage between your brake pedal and the master brake cilinder, I don't think it's air over hydraulic.
'52 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (to be restored) '56 GMC 450 (work in progress) '79 GMC C15 (fully restored)
The AOHB system looks just like a Hydrovac system except it used compressed air instead of vacuum, so the MC and it's linkage are the same either way. The AOHB Booster is also smaller in diameter that the Hydrovac Booster.
The AOHB system looks just like a Hydrovac system except it used compressed air instead of vacuum, so the MC and it's linkage are the same either way. The AOHB Booster is also smaller in diameter that the Hydrovac Booster.
Today is my birthday and as any loving wife would do she asked my what I wanted to do. My answer? Shorten the wheelbase of the Viking.. An so I did. What we came up with is that between the front and the rear leave spring mount there is exactly 1 meter 30, or in American 51”. Instead of cutting the frame, we just brought the axle forward and modified the front mounts.
Seeing they are identical, the holes line up easily. I bought some heavy duty drill’s 10mm (little under 4”) and drilled out the rivets. Easy job with a proper drill and drilling oil. [img]https://myalbum.com/photo/52hI68T8cfUU/360.jpg[/img]
The AOHB system looks just like a Hydrovac system except it used compressed air instead of vacuum, so the MC and it's linkage are the same either way. The AOHB Booster is also smaller in diameter that the Hydrovac Booster.
Mike B
Thanks for enriching my knowledge. My answer was based on another truck I had where the hydraulic part of the booster was mounted under the bed of the truck. In that truck there was just an airline going from the brake pedal to the brake booster mounted under the bed. I just assumed this was the case for this truck as well, my bad.
'52 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (to be restored) '56 GMC 450 (work in progress) '79 GMC C15 (fully restored)
On the original pictures of your spring hangers, I noticed a crossmember at each location. Did you have to relocate the crossmembers too?
No, the crossmember at the front spring hanger, which is now the rear spring hanger is still there and just by coincidence the location of the front spring hanger is now at the crossmember where the driveshaft bearing is located. seeing we're not building a drag racer, I think it should be strong enough, but I'm open to suggestions.
Well I noticed that you moved everything forward the length of the spring assemblies, and wondered if the crossmembers lined up also. Question answered. JP
I've just gone through a lot of wheel threads and bugger..It's got the widowmaker wheels [img]https://myalbum.com/photo/qpdUXrXFGG9d/360.jpg[/img] it says RH5, but I was a bit confused seeing it is 6 lug front and back.. but the picture doesn't lie.
So 1 mission will be to buy some 1 piece rims. If I read all the horror stories about split rims, I want to get rid of them asap. but one question, hopefully not to stupid.. cant you just weld the parts together, or can't you get the tires on like that?
The 20" rims do not have the center drop down section allowing the tire bead to drop into it when installing the tire, without that, the bead will not stretch over the rim bead lip.
You're now on the hunt for 22.5 x 6.5 to 7" rims so you can run 9.00 x 22.5 tires.
Firestone RH-5 rims have a 5 degree bead seat angle, hence the "5" in the part number.
The 20" rims do not have the center drop down section allowing the tire bead to drop into it when installing the tire, without that, the bead will not stretch over the rim bead lip.
You're now on the hunt for 22.5 x 6.5 to 7" rims so you can run 9.00 x 22.5 tires.
Firestone RH-5 rims have a 5 degree bead seat angle, hence the "5" in the part number.
Mike B
ok, but I'm guessing 6 lug will be the problem. I Googled a lot and found some 19.5" new, but thats about it. plus seeing I'm on the other side of the pond, shipping will be a female dog..(this is a family forum, so I refrain from swearing)
The 6-lug 22.5" Budd's are WAY easier to find than the 5/10-lug rims in 22.5". The 6-lugs were used on ALL of the 2-1/2 ton Chevy trucks from 1956 and up. You just need to find the narrow rims as they made them 8" wide and maybe even wider...
You need to shop the USED market...put a Wanted ad here on the Bolt and see if you get any hits!
IMHO the 19.5" rims will look small and out of place in your wheel openings.
ok, but I'm guessing 6 lug will be the problem. I Googled a lot and found some 19.5" new, but thats about it. plus seeing I'm on the other side of the pond, shipping will be a female dog..(this is a family forum, so I refrain from swearing)[/quote]
I've have a similar problem. Mine has 22,5 rims in the back and 19,5 in the front. All 6 lugs. The 22,5 6 lugs are nearly impossible to find in The Netherlands. Take a look at the Trooswijk Auction site. Once every 2/3 months they’ve got an auction of military surplus and at the last 2 auctions there were a few 6 lug 22,5 rims. I didn't buy them yet because my project is on hold at the moment and I haven't got the time to go and look at the rims to see if they are 1 piece rims.
Another option is to use the front and rear axle of a DAF 45/55 with 8 lugs. Those rims are easier to find overhere.
Last option is togo to GABO metaalbedrijf and ask if they can make custom 6 lugs, maybe this will still be cheaper then shipping the rims from the states to The Netherlands....
Last edited by Frozone; 02/01/201910:59 AM.
'52 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (to be restored) '56 GMC 450 (work in progress) '79 GMC C15 (fully restored)
I found this site www.A1truckwheels.com and they have this wheel 22566WB size: 22.5 x 6.75 Mount: Stud-Piloted (Budd); Dual Mounting Bolt Pattern: 6-8.75 they're selling them for $300 a piece including shipping in the US/Canada.
Seeing I need them in the Netherlands, I contacted a cargo forwarder and they'll charge me $400 to get in in the Netherlands.
So all in all 6x 300 + 400 is $2200,- for 6 new wheels...I'm tempted to do it. btw.. are the front rims the same offset as the rear? ( I didn't check yet)
oh..I forgot new tires..and getting them that narrow (max 9" or 225 in european) is another challenge. the narrowest tires I can find is 275/70R22.5 and will set me back another $300 a piece...
hmmmm
Last edited by Steve-W; 02/07/20196:52 PM. Reason: spelling
I found this site www.A1truckwheels.com and they have this wheel 22566WB size: 22.5 x 6.75 Mount: Stud-Piloted (Budd); Dual Mounting Bolt Pattern: 6-8.75 they're selling them for $300 a piece including shipping in the US/Canada.
Seeing I need them in the Netherlands, I contacted a cargo forwarder and they'll charge me $400 to get in in the Netherlands.
So all in all 6x 300 + 400 is $2200,- for 6 new wheels...I'm tempted to do it. btw.. are the front rims the same offset as the rear? ( I didn't check yet)
oh..I forgot new tires..and getting them that narrow (max 9" or 225 in european) is another challenge. the narrowest tires I can find is 275/70R22.5 and will set me back another $300 a piece...
hmmmm
Did you call GABO yet? On there facebook site was a picture of 6 lugs wheels the made for a winnebago camper.
'52 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (to be restored) '56 GMC 450 (work in progress) '79 GMC C15 (fully restored)
Did you call GABO yet? On there facebook site was a picture of 6 lugs wheels the made for a winnebago camper.
Just called them and they'll make wheels for about $400 a piece, the choice is 19.5" or 22.5" but the tire choice presents a challenge, trying to find them narrow enough to fit.. or we go for super wide singles.. for now , I'll let it be as is. first we gotta get a '70 F250 ready for the road, so the Viking moves back in line for a few weeks
Last edited by Steve-W; 02/13/20193:18 PM. Reason: spelling
There is one other option...back in the day they did make a 6-lug Budd to Dayton wheel adapter. These adapters allow you to run any size Dayton rim (20" or 22.5").
I have a set on a early GMC frame and Spanky has a set on his wrecker.
Oh Mike, you have no idea how intensely I hate wheel adapters I understand it's merit, but my one and only experience is bad, so I have decided to never take that path again. My 1969 C10 has 5 lug in the front and 6 lug in the back, so it has 6 to 5 lug wheel adapters and as long as the brakes work, they can stay.
The adapters I'm talking about are nothing like what you have on your C10.
As you may or may not know Dayton Wheels are just open center wheels that are designed to clamp onto Cast Spoke Hubs. These adapters are cast iron and the center has your 6-lug Budd bolt pattern with clamps on the outer part of the disc to bolt/clamp the Dayton Wheel.
These adapters were used by fleet owners that ran Dayton wheels on the entire fleet...if they had gotten a Budd wheeled truck for some reason they would add the adapters to it making that truck now a Dayton wheel truck to "standardized" the fleet.
I'll try to take a picture of what I'm talking about if Spanky doesn't beat me to it...
Steve, as you may or may not know Dayton Wheels are just open center wheels that are designed to clamp onto Cast Spoke Hubs. These adapters are cast iron and the center has your 6-lug Budd bolt pattern with clamps on the outer part of the disc to bolt/clamp the Dayton Wheel.
These adapters were used by fleet owners that ran Dayton wheels on the entire fleet...if they had gotten a Budd wheeled truck for some reason they would add the adapters to it making that truck now a Dayton wheel truck to "standardized" the fleet.
Ah, no I had no idea, seeing this is my first heavier truck I guess this won't be my last suprise
Finished the F250, brought it to the DMV and it passed without any issues, so now we can turn our attention back on the Viking! Started to disassemble the front. for us it's a different model than we're used to, so It took us a good 3 ours to get the fenders and front of, but luckily we only encountered small rust problems (a.k.a. holes) at the front cab mounts. Took out the steering column because we couldn't turn the wheels and indeed the steering gear was completely stuck. When we took it apart, we noticed that most of the grease had left and water replaced it. the bearings are all gone, but also the bearing saddles (I hope that's the right terminology) are all beyond repair.
Thinking it would be hopeless I just googled C60 Steering box and whaddaya know! I found one. it looks exactly the same, it only states 1/2 ton to 1 ton, but what difference the load capacity makes. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1958,truck,4.3l+261cid+l6,1325944,steering,steering+gear,7416
Edit..better read twice because I now see it's a send and rebuild service
Here some more pictures. to my suprise the alternator is a 12V version. where they all 12V or was this a factory option? (seeing it was an export model?)
1958 did not come with an alternator. The item pictured is a Generator. In 1958 it would have been 12 volt from the factory. Looks like you are having way too much fun. ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Here's a couple pictures of my front and rear Budd to Dayton adapters. These are slated for a future project and when used will be fitted with 22.5" Dayton's.
Hey Mike, do you have Dutch ancestors? because I believe your last name is derived from Bottelier, which is a well known name here in the Netherlands. (the name was given to the guy who was responsible for supplies on the old tall ships)
So anyway I was going over the vin plate again, zooming in on the picture and I see it says: General Motors Continental Antwerp Google tells me that from the 20's there have been a couple of manufactering plants in Belgium for CKD's Chevy, GMC, Bedford and Vauxhall.
haven't been doing much, went on a holiday to the Isle of Man for the TT races and somehow every weekend there seems to be a birthday party Hopefully we'll get something done this weekend.
CA = Plant (I believe this is a non-USA plant...made for export)
Looks to me that CA = Continental Antwerp
Originally Posted by Mike B
Engine Serial Number F527LB
F = Flint 5 = Month (May) 27 = Day L = 261 6-cylinder B = ??? look at this letter again, could it be an "E"? This letter indicated what RPO's were added to your truck.
Could the "B" be the export code for "Belgium" ???
I'm not aware of any Dutch ancestry (we've been in the US since the early 1600's).
[quote=Mike B] Looks to me that CA = Continental Antwerp
Engine Serial Number F527LB F = Flint 5 = Month (May) 27 = Day L = 261 6-cylinder B = ??? Could the "B" be the export code for "Belgium" ??? Mike B
Yep..this C60 has never been in the US, but was build in Belgium and sold as a new truck in the Netherlands.. thats pretty cool right?, there can't be many trucks around anymore like this.. (omg..and we're cutting it up)
Anyway, we were pulling stuff from the cab and got it to the point we can lift it off, but we were down to 3 man, one a bit fragile, so we'll do it next week with a forklift. In the meantime, I have a gazillion questions:
So on the picture "vacuum pipe", I have this (vacuum?) pipe entering the cab and the filter on the second picture was attached to it. then the 3rd picture is some kind of flywheel with a brake pad on the insight, engaged by a lever...I guess for the PTO? and the last picture, how do I remove the gear stick? do we grind of the stub on the picture?
That pipe have the second picture filter on the end? If so, its likely an air intake for vacuum operated Hydrovac booster for the brakes or the 2 speed rear.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally 1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
