The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop DIY brake lines?

I am going to switch over to a frame mounted dual reservoir master cylinder. Anyone have ANY tips on bending-up my own new brake lines?
I had an original steel line break and I lost ALL brakes real quick!! (thank goodness I was it happened as I was backing it off of the rack when I had my mufflers put on! )
Thanks alot,
Russ

Russ: Here is a trick i find very successful. taught to me by an old plumber, take your line cut it to length, put your end fittings on, cover one end with gray tape solid. Then fill your tube with silicon sand, pack it tight then cover the other end with tape. Take your tube bender and slowly start bending your curves take your TIME!! The sand alows tube to bend but not kink or be crushed.

Done many lines here at Hospital, and have had success with SS brake line. popcorn The Truth is Out There (Slow & Patience)

I'm not sure about sand in brake lines. Just use a good tubing bender and a double flair tool.

Kedso: Easy to get sand out with air hose, that was my first response years ago, but they clean up perfect. The sand trick alows the metal to stretch, curve, and form. Trust us Ol farts popcorn The Truth is out There (Really)

My first ever truck, a rusty 64 Chevy, the second day I owned it, a line popped when I hit the brakes when traffic stopped in the fast lane of a 5 lane freeway. Traffic was heavy and all lanes were suddenly coming to a stop...except for me.

For some strange reason I was able to change lanes 5 times just as traffic in each lane was stopping right in front of me. I stopped the truck on the side of the freeway with the emergency brake.

Both my passengers needed a major cleanup and change of clothes.

Get double flaring tool so you can make the lines the right length. For years I was bending or coiling up the excess from the std length tubes. Bought a flaring tool for this project and I kicked myself for not doing it years ago. Makes the job easier and it looks better too. Worth every penny.

If you have never done any flaring before, I suggest practicing on the old line that you are replacing a few times. The better the flare the safer the line is. Also.... When you are finally ready to flare the line that you are going to install, don't forget to put the nut on the line first. I bet everyone that has made their own line gets a smirk when they read this. Dont forget to put the nut on the right side of the bend when you start too. :rolleyes:

Thanks all...
I will get the right tools.
I WILL have patience (I sometimes use all I have quickly)
I have to do this on the creeper...under the truck.

a couple of suggestions: If possible don't mangle the old lines too much when removing them. Then you can use them as your template for the new line. If the old line dosen't survive the removal process get an old coat hanger ( metal) and bend it for your template.

I have heard of using sand or salt in the brake line for bending.

Last tip make sure your fitting is on the correct side of the bend. Especially if it is a tight bend!

Good Luck!

Yea, thanks Brian...
I have a couple of original lines left on the truck. The other few were half/assed by the PO.
So I have this niffty allum. wire that I will use to "make up" new line templates.

There are tubing "pliers" with rollers sized to fit your tubing. While these are handy for some situations, I recommend finding a bender specifically for the tube you are working. Ridgid and Imperial make good benders. I don't like the 3 in 1 type. For the rear axle, I made a plywood template to match the differential cover diameter. I often use cardboard to draw out complex pieces full size, then lay the tube on it to check as I bend. Learn the difference between left and right measurements or you will be too long or short.
The other thing is a good double lap flaring tool. I have had good luck with Imperial, but prefer the new Ridgid with the thick non slip flare block. If you have much to do it's worth the investment. Good luck.

I re-plumbed the whole truck with 3/16" line. I used all pre-flared pcs. Only one union (for the back line. This is for a dual chamber master cylinder under the floor (KIT).
Two 60" lines to the back (UNION)
I forget the the two lenths that split at a "T" at the rear end...
One 72" line for each front brake.
One 12" line from the master to a "T".
The ony excess line was from the back and it only made a simple 6"-8" U-shape.
You can bend the 3/16" line very easily. The only bends I used a bender on were where the line goes into the slave cylinders.
I used insulated line clamps from NAPA.
It came out great! (not a show truck)

This re-do was from a stock line (52 left-front line from master) that broke from rubbing on the frame all those years...I found that where it broke was an area where they should have secured the line better (another "clamp") Or maybe I lost one of the clamps...I can't tell. You might check yours.

Thank you all for the help!