The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Frozen/rusted wheel cylinders

Rusted bolts got the best of me today...Problem is the two small bolts 3/8 head, are so close to the steering knuckle that its impossible to remove now that the heads are rounded...The 3/8 wrench was spinning on the head of the bolt to start with, and I was using a 6 point box end....Tried hammering with a drift to tackle the rust to no avail....as with vice grips....I should mention I did soak the bolts with Kroil.....My next thought was heating with a propane torch, but am a bit apprehensive due to the brake fluid....I am planning to rebuild the wheel cylinders....Just wondering if there were any other options??? Thanks

Center punch a dimple in the bolt heads as close to the middle as possible, then use a drill bit to remove the bolt head. I'd use about a 5/16" bit or so. Once the bolt heads are close to gone, try using a hammer and chisel to knock them off the rest of the way. There should be enough left of the bolt shanks to remove them with a pair of vise grips once the wheel cylinder is removed.
Jerry

Good theory...however these small bolts are in front or behind the steering knuckle... There is no way to get a drill in there...I was only able to get one bolt out, and it just cleared the knuckle. In the front, looking at the backing plate with the shoes removed, there is a thick heavy bracket that the ears protrude over the ends of the wheel cylinders so that the pistons cannot fall out....Why would this bracket be there , where there are other vehicles that don't have it ??? I've done many brake jobs and was able to hone the cylinder without any issue, but for some reason this truck (1970 C30) has those ears???

That bracket is a safety feature to prevent the pistons from pushing out in case the brake shoes come adrift for some reason. It was common to a lot of GM vehicles in the 60's and 70's. The steering knuckle can also be unbolted for better access to the bolts, and/or the whole backing plate can be removed so you can get it onto a workbench or a drill press.
Jerry

I have seen YouTube videos of doing the entire replacement of wheel cylinders, brake shoes and springs on the bench. They then installed the entire assembly including the backing plate on to the truck. It was a late '60s to early '70s half ton. Looked a whole lot easier than bending over on the ground, fighting with everything which seems to be designed to defeat me.
Carl

I worked as a mechanic in the late sixties & early seventies at both a GM & Chrysler dealerships. Later in my years, & now part time I work at a friends lawn mower shop. Every repair that comes in is a piece of cake, and I have lost the sense of reality, when it comes to the grunge & drudgery of older vehicles. I am half restoring this C30 masons dump to use for jobs that my pickup can't handle. This truck was neglected, and patched up, with little $$$ over the years by the previous owners, and I'm trying to bring it back to the glory it once was. Fortunately I had the experience of these trucks when they were new, so sweet & simple.... I know I'm getting off topic here but wouldn't it be great if there was a dab of grease here & there. I 'Never Seize' every nut & bolt, mainly for the next guy, as I rarely go back. I don't know why I posted my question, as I know better, I guess out of frustration, I use my computer as my relax time...I will free the rusted bolts & go on to the next thing...I appreciate your replies and respect your comments Thank you.....'Keep on Truckin'

Ain't that the truth. It seems everything just gets neglected on these old trucks from sitting so long. I also try to put something on the threads or outside of the nut/bolt out of habit (aviation background).

I used to hammer one of the brackets back with a hammer & drift. Then rebuilt the wheel cyl. through one end.
George

Wow..That seems like a tall order....perhaps with some heat from a torch....anyhow I bit the bullet and removed the backing plates, heated with the torch & spun out the bolts with the vice grips... While I was at it, I gunked & power washed the knuckles/backing plates & brushed on some black Rustoleum..... Took all day for a 2 hr. job.....Love my truck......

Next time, Sharpen an air hammer chisel and carefully cut the head of the bolts off and try not to dig in to the backing plate. Ive done it many times. works a lot easier than it sounds.

yeah if your changing the wheel cylinder...I'm rebuilding them...I would have changed them but, then its the hoses, & steel lines that go to the hoses....another project for another day....I gotta get the truck back on the road....Actually the brakes were a result of replacing the front tires, that ended up with sandblasting the wheels & powder coating, then it was wheel bearings while the wheels were off....then pull the drum to check the brakes.....I got way over my head at the wrong time of year.....And while I was under the left fender, I noticed the steering rag joint, or should I say what was left of it......Going to keep my eyes closed while assembling so I don't find any more ....

lol. I hear ya. But truthfully id rather find a lot of the issues while the truck is sitting still or at least make myself aware of the possibilities of failure b4 the truck decides to tell me something failed heading down the road, if you know what I mean...…..

Yup....Replacing the brake hoses & complete wheel cylinders today....Trying to restore it, & using it at the same time is a challenge.....Did you know there is a Glen's Towing in Elmsford NY?

No I never heard of them, but there are more Glenn's Towing than I ever thought there would be. I find them all the time usually by accident.

I worked in a brake shop in the 60's. One of the "mechanics" there never removed a wheel cylinder to rebuild them. He would cut off the brackets with an air chisel. When asked about the procedure, his response was "well Ford's don't have them and they work fine". Not saying this is the proper procedure, but it could save a lot of aggravation.
Fred

Make sure you replace all of the steel and rubber lines while doing your brake job. The old steel and rubber fail from the inside out, so they may look good, but really aren't. This is a easy job that can be done in one weekend bending your own lines with roll tubing from the auto parts store.

Be safe,

Mike B

Actually I ended up changing the steel lines in the front, as the line was rusted/frozen in the brake hose....I gotta say with all due respect to suggestions, either do the job right or don't do it at all....This truck is a nightmare of butcher cobbed up so called repairs...Just the wheels were a situation that defied logic, with pure ignorance....The front wheels were replaced with C20 16.5 rims, neither hub or lug centric...held on by the strength of the lug nuts. The 1 ton hub spacer was removed & thrown out...so the front had disc wheels with hubcaps, while the rear had the dual budd type rims...The inners were the original to the truck which supported the weight...The outers were the later model tubeless, that again were neither hub or lug centric. The only reason why I think someone did all of this as they didn't want to spend any $$$ for tires, or deal with the outer ring or tubes.....I just can't imagine how anyone could be so careless, stupid, or cheap.....It wasn't all that easy for me to find the wheels, tube type with the outer rings....I needed 4 as the original inners were so destroyed from sledge hammer blows I couldn't use them....another BS way to do something with a 'BFH'....Then I had to find the front hubs/spacers, replace the bearings....Fortunately the later model wheels are hub centric to the hubs and with the lug nut adapter I can use the tubeless later wheels with the 1/2 lug studs.....I know I'm getting off topic here but as I said, do it right or don't do it at all.... How about this...The foot operated emergency brake is bent like a pretzel....why you ask? from some idiot trying to force a rusted emergency brake cable.....Or hacking up a cast alternator bracket to make an alternator fit so that the fan belt will run true.....Instead of getting to correct alternator with the projected spacer....I can go on & on....There really should be a forum section for hackers I'm sure some examples can top mine.....These vintage Chevy trucks are so sweet, I just can't imagine how anyone can disrespect them.....end rant......

I've always had the opinion that the very best possible brake and steering work is just barely good enough. If somebody is willing to bet his life (and mine if I'm anywhere near him on the road) on half-donkey brakes and/or steering, I'd like to get him into a high-stakes poker game. He's probably going to draw to an inside straight, too!
Jerry