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| | | Forums66 Topics128,041 Posts1,055,490 Members48,424 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | I am preparing to do a complete replacement of all brake lines on my 1950 3100 truck, and I am wondering if I should spend the extra money and upgrade to stainless steel lines? I know that over time moisture will collect in brake fluid and that will cause rust in an original steel line. I just don’t know how bad the rust would be and how long it would take before it caused a significant problem? The lines on my truck are original and still function well. I just thought that while I was doing a complete brake overhaul complete with master cylinder, wheel cylinders, brake shoes, and drums, that I would go ahead and replace the brake lines too. If anyone would care to share their opinion or experience with me I would appreciate it.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,752 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,752 | Stainless brake lines are a royal pain in the posterior to cut, bend, and flare, and so called "pre-bent" lines rarely if ever fit right without some serious tweaking. The copper/nickel lines with the funky green color are almost as corrosion resistant as stainless, and they're much easier to bend than plain old steel lines. fairly long radius bends can be made without danger of collapsing the tubing by hand without even using a tubing bender. Tight bends will requite a bender, but the tube is much more forgiving of slight errors than either plain steel or stainless. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I second Jerry's comments and yes it is always good to just replace them on these old trucks. I think the copper nickel may be a bit softer and that is a good thing when trying to seal a flared connection. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | I did not mind paying the price for stainless steel lines on my two 1954 trucks that will be inherited by my grandchildren. I replaced all brake system parts at the same time.
The lines I received (in 2000) for my 1954 1/2 ton Suburban fit perfectly. I did, however, "go overboard" and use DOT-5 silicone brake fluid (which means I cannot now easily change to regular brake fluid), and all brake system parts/rubber have been "silicone contaminated".
I'll have to flush the lines and change all rubber parts, when I change back to "normal" brake fluid before a die (maybe 15-20 years from now).
I had to send my 1954 1/2 ton hydra-matic pickup's lines/fittings to one of the ss line fabricators/sellers, after they sent me completely wrong lines (even though they said they knew about the H-M differences). These went together perfectly.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 631 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 631 | As far as time to failure of brake lines in Texas...............with even the slightest maintenance.........50 years on steel, 100 years or more with SS or NiCop. In salt or wet areas in everyday use.......cut the live span in 1/2. “Current” GM trucks with 20 years of use are well known for brake line rot.
Rubber parts in the brakes 15- 20 years but highly dependent on the original quality of the service parts.
Last edited by showkey; 05/28/2019 5:37 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 118 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 118 | I went with stainless tubing and fittings from Inline Tube, and while I haven't filled and tested the system yet to check for leaks, I didn't have any trouble at all bending, flaring, and plumbing in the system. A quality flairing tool is a must. My regular small rigid tubing cutters didn't have any problem cutting the tubing. Used a tubing bender for all the bends, imo you should always use a bender, and if you know how to use it should have zero issues creating an bend necessary to form with the chassis.
I think if you take the time with SS it really isn't all that hard. NiCop is cheaper though, easier to form, and will last just as long. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | The site I found and have been surfing around on is Inline Tubing, but I’m open to other manufacturers. Their products seem to be of high quality. I don’t think they make a nickel-copper version but, now that several have recommended it, I’ll email them and ask. I think it would be the best of both worlds, and cheaper too. After having ruined a few $$$ worth of straight tubing trying to learn how to bend it, I’m sorry to say I’ll be shopping for the pre-bent variety. Thanks everyone for your opinions!
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | "The site I found and have been surfing around on is Inline Tubing, . . "
"Inline Tubing" or "Inline Tube"?
Classic Tube is another vendor of stainless steel lines. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | You’re correct Tim, it’s Inline Tube.
I’ll check out Classic Tube as well. Thanks
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | | | | Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 73 PA OUTLAW | | PA OUTLAW Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 73 | about a month ago I contemplated the same thing for my 1954 1st. decided to go with classic tube and was very skeptical ordered complete stainless steel brake line kit. I think it came in about a week very fast! all line were labeled for location. took front left wasn't close took right front too long. scratched my head took and switched sides left to right &right to left fit like a glove. Told my wife they must have one of her relatives working there don't know left from right. all fit GREAT!!!!!! glad I went that route | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 465 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 465 | I also purchased a set from inline , they work well
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 | I have installed Inline Tube SS lines on a ‘49, ‘50, and a ‘52. Only issue was learning the importance of repetitive tightening and loosening and tightening of the flare ends to securely seat the SS flares to the inverted flare parts. I do this on steel brake and fuel lines also, but is especially important with SS flared ends due to the stubborn nature of SS.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | I used Anti-seize stainless steel grease on my second installation.I wish I had thought about using that grease on my first job. Even with the grease, gently/repeatedly tighten, loosen, and re-tighten the fittings (as described above by Carl, above). | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | I just placed my order with Inline Tube. Went with the steel lines instead of SS. We don’t get any snow here in south Texas during the winter, and the closest the truck will ever get to salt is if I drove it 175 miles south to Corpus Christi on the Gulf of Mexico. I bought their item # CTB4703, which is the bundle that includes the entire set of replacement brake lines. I added a set of 3 rubber brake lines and junction block, and a set of mounting clips. With the 5% online discount and shipping the total came to $238.98 which I thought was reasonable. I’m looking forward to getting it all installed soon.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | I ordered new fuel pump-to-carb fuel line at he same time I ordered the new brake lines, and nstalled the new fuel line this evening and it fit perfectly. The bends were exactly like they should be and after 3 “tightening-loosen-tightening” sessions it never leaked again. Looking forward to getting the brake system refurbished as soon a I have a free weekend.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | |
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