I have the 70C50 that needed longer wheel studs to make "ME" feel safe as the originals lacked about a quarter inch being even with the outside end of the lug nut This was after using the wheels now 22.5" 10 bolt wheels from Wheels now. So anyway used the 704173GM, E8961 Euclid wheel studs. The knurl is moved further up the stud as pictured as well as about .004 larger diameter in the knurl area. I reamed the holes with a 3/4 drill bit (and yes my vintage miller falls 1/2 drive drill kicked my old [censored] several times) this was after I had tried to drive the new studs with a 8lb. short handle sledge. It still took 7 to 8 lusty swings to seat each one.
As noted I am older than my mind thinks, fat, lazy and no longer relish dirty hands. I drilled and tapped the hub between the bearing races for a 1/8" pipe plug which allows me to fill and or drain the hub without packing the bearings with grease. Have to line up between a couple studs but I had half them out at one time. Not my original idea but first seen on some IH tractors back in the early eighties during a past life.
Hope this helps someone else and the picture shows. Now on to the brake drums which are worn out. Got like new shoes though. Tom
I’d be cautious about packing the hubs full of grease on a high speed application. As things warm up and expand the extra has to go somewhere and you might grease your brakes too.
Oil-lubed hubs usually need different seals than grease-packed ones. Lots of 18-wheeler trailers do that. If you plan to run gear lube instead of grease. a conversation with a good industrial bearing and seal vendor might be a good idea. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
