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Has anyone used a hydraulic clutch in their truck, i am running a small block chevy w/ a t-10 trans and would like to eliminate the whole z-bar linkage thing. i do not even know where to start with this, what will work, what wont, etc.
Thanks for your help..Dale

The early 60s chevy and GMC trucks used a hydraulic clutch setup. The latemodel trucks also use a hydraulic clutch but you would have to use the latemodel trans as the bellhousings do not separate from the trans and they use a hydraulic throwout bearing setup. If I am remembering correctly there are companies that sell a universal hydraulic throwout bearing that can be adapted to most bellhousings. I hope this helps. Jeff

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HRE%2D82870

I have a hydraulic clutch bellhousing from a '62 Suburban sitting in my garage but it is for a 235/261. The setup is pretty clean. The slave cylinder goes on the passenger side. I kept the mechanical clutch in my '50. I'll be happy to shoot you a picture or two if you want.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll look into it and see which will work better for me.
THanks again!
Dale

couldn't you also use a slave cylinder on a standard manual throwout bearing bellhousing? I seem to remember somthing like this for vw sandrails and motorcycles?

Hydraulic clutches are a popular conversion with the 4x4 crowd. From 1985 and up I believe GM was putting a hydraulic clutch in its S10 and full size trucks. It would probably be cheaper and easier to source the parts from the newer models rather than the 60-62 Chevy's (GMC used hydraulic from 60-63 but only behind the V6 and that bellhousing wont fit a V8 or I6).

A late 1980's Chevy truck has a external slave cylinder and the trans will bolt up. I used that and a set of S-10 pedals in my 37.

Dave

I'm working on this right now and here's the story:

You've got two choices, both invovle a 3/4" master cylinder attached to the clutch pedal.

With your first option you use a 'hydraulic throw out bearing' and one hydraulic line to the clutch master cylinder. Howe Racing makes a hydraulic throw out bearing similar to the ones used in mid 80 to now jeeps, camaros and other vehicles. Very common to use a hydraulic throw out bearing and very easy to set up. With the bellhousing on the engine, measure the space from the outside edge of the bellhousing to the clutch fingers. Then measure from teh mounting surface to the face of the hydraulic throw out bearing. Put shims behind the bearing until these distances are the same. Run the hydraulic line to the master cylinder, bleed the system and you are done!

The other option is a push or pull type slave cylinder that bolts to the existing clutch arm and uses the existing throw out bearing. The bellhousing on the '62 261 was set up this way but was otherwise cracked so I couldn't use it. These push or pull slave cylinders are available aftermarket or are also commonly used on all types of vehicles. They bolt to the bellhousing and push or pull the clutch fork. You might be able to drill and tap the bellhousing to mount one of these, but it would probably be lots easier to use a hydraulic throw out bearing.

Now here is the problem... WHere to put the master cylinder? There isn't much room behind the clutch pedal arm due 'cause that's where the master cylinder is, unless you have relocated it.

FYI-

The T-5 hydraulic Throw Out bearing is different from all others and available at the same cost as the universal one.

The universal hydraulic throw out bearing would work very nicely on the sm-420.

I would imagine the stock GM ones would work too if someone would figure out which one was the right height and had the right amount of travel when depressed. Otherwise, the universal one that comes with a shim kit and slider rod can be easily set up.

Where to put the master cylinder? I'm putting it on the frame rail sort of beneath the steering box and using a heim and rod set up to pull the plunger rather than push it. Will post pictures later.

Cost???? Hydraulic Throw Out Bearing: $150; 3/4" master cylinder $50, hydraulic line $15. 1/4 thick 3" x 6" piece of steel with 1 1/4" diameter hole and 2 x 5/16" holes to fab mount for master cylinder, $10.00 from scrap yard; 5/16 heim $5.00.