Before I whack away on drum like I had to on front drums, thought I'd check with you guys first. Shouldn't this just come off same as front ? That's what FSM says.
Looks to be a captive drum, you will have to remove the axle, then the hub/drum assembly. Hub lock nut requires special socket to remove, if you're lucky it maybe the same as front hubs on 4 wheel drive's and can be bought or even borrowed from one the chain parts stores.
That one needs to come off hub and all as one assembly, hub, drum, bearings and all. Now please tell me that there's a jack stand involved somewhere in this project, and you're not supporting that big truck with nothing but that Mickey Mouse toy jack! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
There is no weight on the 'disney' jack. It does the lifting job (only). I'm a glutton for punishment. Plan to get a nice floor jack someday. So. I see in the manual about removing all that like a big mess - is this still a  ¾ ton rear ? I don't experience in 'larger' trucks, but this looks to me like one could put duellies there.
I believe the same axle and hub was used (with a bigger brake drum) for 1 ton dual wheel setups. I had a 1959 3800 flat bed truck with the same basic rear axle and 14" brake drums. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I suppose I'll wait until all apart to see shoe size, but I was able to pickup front 2.8" x 11" shoes - at Autozone. I know back shoes in sad shape, since front were hardly worn.
I know back shoes in sad shape, since front were hardly worn.
Typically front shoes or pads wear more than rears, unless something is really messed up.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I guess it is on the red 60 or 61 truck in the other pictures? The rear cover looks like a Eaton HO52/72 axle. I agree with Lincoln that it looks like a dually hub. You sure the truck is not a C30 (1-ton)? I think Chevy still had the HD 3/4-ton option with rear duals at that time. Good luck.
" Hub lock nut requires special socket to remove " . If I read manual correctly, the tool is J-2222. When I google it, I see a few different styles for the same #. Anyone have a good picture and/or location to buy one ? I plan to work on this a long time, so I might as well buy the thing. . edit: oh, VIN says it is definitely ¾ ton Platform built in K C .
edit : never mind, bought tool at oreilly - $10.99 Hub off in 5 min. y e a !
(continuing my own thread...) So, all cleaned - new shoes. Greased bearings. (I know, oil will eventually coat them again) B u t , there is only about 1" of room to insert tool to adjust star wheel to expand shoes to useful point. I am probably going to heat/bend an old screwdriver ; is this the usual plan ? Or is there a perfect little tool for this I haven't found ? . ( also picked up a harborfreight floor jack on sale - apparently made in same factory as Snap-On )
There are lots of brake adjusting tools on the market. I have several, from a Mac to a Harbor Freight to a couple homemade/ bent to work on an oddball. An important tip: film of grease on the contact points on the backing plates where the shoes rest, and also take your adjusters apart, clean and lube the pin/ swivels and make sure the spring washers are in place. You want that thing to turn really free for adjusting up. Also if you can reach in the corner with a small screwdriver/ punch etc. and hold the adjuster bar in off the star wheel to adjust up it makes it easier.
Thanks ... I ended up adjusting with wheel / brake drum off, mount drum - spin, remove/adjust/mount spin, etc. About to do the wheel cylinders since I could not - for the life of me - get them bled right. ( not first bleeding rodeo ).
