Didn't think to try Auto Zone....actually a few months back I went in there looking for a 'choke pull off' - they had no clue what I was talking about, and never heard of such a thing....I think looking for these lug nuts would fall in the same category........Now Fastenal....sounds like a sure bet....will check it out....Thanks !!!
My COE had hub-centered wheel attachment - the wheels centered on the axle hubs. The bolts had flat backs, no flange, and small slits in the top, like "Castellated" and "Marsden" nuts.
I do not remember if they had cotter pins (I think not).
Mine were relatively rare large Marsden nuts (image is attached, below). I found the part number, searched the Internet, and found 50 at $1 each (I needed 40).
Try these previous threads https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1213797/Searchpage/1/Main/177795/Words/%2BLug+%2Bnut+%2BMcMaster+%2B/Search/true/re-lug-nut-size.html#Post1213797
Bartamos....My truck is a 1970 C30 mason dump....See my post titled '70 C30 wheel conversion' Fastenal was the solution that had a 1/2x20 nut with a flange 10 per bag @ $7.59....Isn't that sweet.... My luck on line, as with e-bay didn't turn anything up.... If you view my post on the wheel conversion Grigg was helping me, much appreciated.... but at the end of the day, I ended up using the original type wheel.....I wanted to avoid the rim with the outer ring & tube, but to no avail....I used two of my original wheels & located 2 more....Right now they are out being sandblasted & powder coated (after I straightened with the torch the sledge hammer blows on the edges) ....all set up by a truck tire shop where I will purchase the tires...I opted for radials 215/85/16, rather than the bias 750/16 which I would have preferred but they had no source other than Coker. Seeing they were so good about breaking down 7 wheels to find two good ones I felt obligated to by the tires they had in stock...Goodyear/Firestone.....Can't bring myself to buy & look at the Chinese brand.....despite the savings.....I'm still amazed on how stupid people can be....The guy I got the truck from had the original rear inner wheel with the late model wheels on the outer, neither hub or lug centric just a couple of large flat washers with standard coned lug nuts installed backwards....
I actually read through this forum a while back and said to myself, "ha, I never seen them b4." Low and behold I bought a gmc 2500 chassis a few days ago now and just noticed last nite it has the same lugnuts. Go figure. lol. Do you happen to know what torque they are supposed to be at?
I've been known to use 1/2-20 tapered lug nuts on a 1959 3800 I had- - - -turned backwards. They look a little strange, but they hold the wheels on just fine! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I just took the wheels off my roller and put it on jack stands. Same lug nuts. They weren't tight at all. My wifes car lugnuts were tighter yesterday when i had a tire to repair. Anyone know what the actual torque spec is supposed to be for these? My roller is a 63 GMC 2500.
Standard torque for a 1/2-20 bolt is 90 ft/lbs. with the threads lubricated, or 120 ft/lbs. dry. I've always used 100 ft/lbs. as a rule of thumb for 1/2" lug nuts and I've never lost a wheel due to the lugs backing off. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I dont have a manual either. Wow 55 ft lbs is not tight at all. Seems light?? AS a rule of thumb, Ive have learned years ago after use of a torque wrench, turn it down to (0) when done or at least the lowest setting it has. Ive heard that leaving them set up somehow screws with the calibration. I have no proof of this. Its just what I heard about some 25 years ago.
Book says 65-90 ft lb. I must have used the wrench for something else in the meantime. Some torque wrenches don’t need adjusting to zero, snap-on TQR series for example, no spring is left compressed as in twist handle types.
Thanks for the spec. seems like a big variance. Ill be at 90 for sure. Good to know on torque wrench also. I think all of mine are twist handle type. So I guess that's why they should be zeroed.
