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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,081 Posts1,056,078 Members48,434 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2018 Posts: 298 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2018 Posts: 298 | Is there a better book for a 37 truck than the blue shop Manuel? I am looking for something that shows more detail? Would like to do my wiring harness as close to original as possible. Thanks for any help with this. Bill
1937 GC
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 1,122 | Bill Other than the Engineering Specifications publication I am not aware of anything. That is or was available online via the GM HeritageCenter. It does not have the level of detail needed for the wiring, however. The harness that cam with my ‘37 was an aftermarket and unlikely to have been even close to as the original. Rhode Island Wiring or YNZ might have the info you need and likely the correct materials as well. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 | The '37 has a voltage cutout instead of a voltage regulator. If you are going to retain the original voltage cutout, I believe you will need to use the original headlight switch which includes a setting that boosts the generator output so that headlights and options such as a heater or radio don't run the battery down.The switch includes a resistor for when there is no load other than the ignitions system, so that you don't overcharge the battery. This is my understanding of the original system which my '37 retains. I have been told this system is the same as old tractors. I kind of like it as you have to think about what your electric system is doing and watch the ammeter while driving. A little less automatic than when using a voltage regulator. I only have a heater in it so it is no big deal.
If you want a copy of the original wiring system I can send you a photo (too big to fit in my scanner) that came with my harness from Rhode Island Wiring.
Regards, Kent | | | | | Joined: Jan 2018 Posts: 298 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2018 Posts: 298 | I guess I didn't explain exactly what I was looking for. I am converting to 12volt with alternator. I am looking for pics or drawings of how and where the wiring goes through the cab and along frame to engine, headlights, and back to tail lights. My harness was completely gone on the truck I'm doing. Not worried about original but would like to see where original went. Thanks, Bill
1937 GC
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 | I think I can answer that for you. The wiring harness from the dash exits the cab, along with the speedometer cable, through a gap between the toeboard and bottom edge of the firewall just to the left of the steering column. The harness then connects with the dimmer switch just beneath the floorboard. In this area beneath the floorboard the harness connects with the hydraulic brake switch on the master cylinder and sends a wire to the gas sender in the underseat tank. The forward part of the harness goes forward along the frame to below the left headlight. Wires then go to the two headlights from there. The wires to the tail light just follow the same left frame rail back to the light.
There is no harness penetrating the firewall like in later trucks.
Kent | | | | | Joined: Jan 2018 Posts: 298 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2018 Posts: 298 | Kent, sent you a P.M. Bill
1937 GC
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