hi Jim60 assuming you are asking about 47-54 model years, its fairly straight forward remove the inside door handle and window crank remove the inside door panel use the window crank to drop the window about 2 - 3 inches from the top until you see the 4 large screws that hold the bottom of the window on undo the screws hold onto the glass and crank the window mechanism all the way down now carefully rotate the glass forward (leading edge) down and use all the wiggle room to lift the glass out of the door towards the inside of the door
now you have the glass out with it's metal frame, undo the two tiny screws at the bottom of the frame, use care to remove the frame reverse all the steps to put is back in -s
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
I just today finished installing the two windows in my 53 one ton, and I can tell you it is a chore! The vent assembly needs to come out all the way, which is a bit tricky, then the window can be slid off the track. After the new glass is in, slide the window back on the track, then with it all the way down maneuver the vent assembly back into place. You also will need to get the upper part of the window channel out of the way where it meets the vent assembly.
Remember that there is a bolt holding the very bottom of the vent assembly in place, you have to reach up inside the door through the lower access panel. Not much room, pretty much do it by feel. I used two extensions on my 3/8 drive ratchet to get to it.
As long as the vent assembly is out you can replace the front channel. I couldn't get rivets to work, so I just glued it in with 3M weather strip adhesive, then let the window lock it in place while it dried.
It is doable, but can get very frustrating. I learned the hard way to do anything else I could before I put the window back in. I replaced the outer rubber seal, put some white lithium grease in the window track, and sprayed silicone into the channels to make it easier to roll the windows up and down. Even then I ended up taking the first door I worked on apart three times to correct mistakes.
But it sure looks nice now!
Good Luck
Tim
I am currently digging back in to a 1953 3800 (one ton) with a nine foot bed. I've owned it since 1979, and drove it until 1982 (or so). My wife got me involved in restoring it back in 2002, got the body removed and the frame redone, then things came up. Now I am retired and starting again. If anyone is interested I have photos on Imagur ( https://timwhiteblues.imgur.com/ ). I live way back in the woods in the Ozarks on 40 acres at the end of a 2 1/2 mile private road.
1 - Mark the door frame with a felt-tip marker where the two channels meet - just above the side-bar of the vent window, for reference (see #5 below**).
2 - Remove the entire vent window assembly. Now's a good time to adjust the looseness/tightness of the vent window movement -- see that fat spring with the nut on the end of it? Spray some WD40 on that puppy ... turn clockwise to tighten movement; counter-clockwise to loosen movement.
3 - Raise the door window, tilt it and remove it from the track-wheel of the window regulator.
4 - Remove the old piece of felt channel from the side-bar of the vent window and install the new one - this requires some serious pressing into place. I used a small vise for gentle pursuasion and less effort.
5 - Remove the old piece of felt channel from door (check for screws that may be holding it in place) and install the new one, starting where you made your mark on the frame with the felt-tip marker**. Just press it into place for now ... don't secure it with screws just yet.
6 - Remove the old rubber strip from the outside-bottom of the window-opening in the door -- and good luck! Mine was all dry, hard and broken off, so I had to chisel it out with an ice pick ... took me a good 20 minutes, too! See picture above. Then install the new one -- hold it up to the area it's going into, cut it to length and poke the fatter side in with a screwdriver (flattest side down).
7 - Put the door window back in place, carefully sliding it into the felt channel that's installed, and roll the window down.
8 - Here comes the trickiest part! Put the vent window assembly back in ... doing your best to get the new felt channel to accept the other side of the door window as you go.
9 - Now, making sure the channels butt up against each other tightly, screw the top-side of the window felt channel into place ... I put a small sheet metal screw where the channel starts (by the vent window), another one about midway, and a third just below the bend, making sure it stayed up there -- once the screws are tightened, you'll never know they're there. The screws go through the channel very easily, but if you don't already have screw holes in the door frame, you'll have to drill.
10 - Last is the felt strip with the chrome bead on it that attaches to the bottom of the inside window molding. These press against the window and prevent rattling. My kit came with a carbide drill bit for drilling holes in the molding for the provided staples -- you push the staples through and crimp them on the other side -- but I've heard it's hard to crimp the staples and get a tight fit; that screws are better. So I went to Home Depot and bought some #4 3/8-inch sheet-metal screws (3/16-inch would've been better, but the smallest they had was 3/8). Using the pre-existing holes that were already in the felt strips (and one I drilled myself, at the end of the curved tip), I laid the felt strip in place on the window moulding and drilled holes into the moulding using a 3/32-inch drill bit. When I screwed all down tight, the screw heads got buried in the felt - you can't even tell they're there! Lastly, I cut the ends of the screws off with my dremel -- they looked like they were sticking through the other side too far. Another reason I used screws instead of the staples is, I plan on covering my inside window mouldings with vinyl and will have to remove (and replace) these felt strips when I do that project -- staples would've been a pain in the neck, eh?
