Like so many of our older rigs I know of a few areas of rusty surfaces such as down inside the doors, lower interior side of rear cab corners, etc and want to stop it from doing more damage. There are so many different brands out there. Corroseal? Evapo-Rust Ultra? Rust Converter Ultra? My truck is a daily beater so no plans to do a bunch of body work nor paint it.
What might you recommend?
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
For areas like inside doors, I get them as clean as possible, apply Ospho, then wait 24 hours and paint with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, then paint with Rustoleum paint (any color).
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Just curious, what happens if you treat with rust converter and leave it? I’m talking places that aren’t seen or are hard to get at. Can you just OSPHO the dickens out of it, rinse it off and forget it forever?
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Ospho - might as well over-coat? "Painting treated surfaces tends to yield more durable finishes, as moisture and oxygen are effectively sealed away from the metal."
Thanks all for some ideas. I did a bunch of web surfing on ospho and most everyone said that if you don't paint over the ospho, it will create a thin film of rust. But remember.......that's the web talking. So far I'm most impressed with what I've seen regarding Corroseal.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
I have used chassis saver it is simular to por 15 without the prep except for scrape and sand the loose rust off. Seems to be okay so far it is hard as a rock has to be painted over if exposed to the sun.
Used POR for years but it is so hard we had top coat adhesion problems on occasion. We switched to the KBS system which also dries to a shiny black finish, seems to encapsulate just as good, and has not had a top coat adhesion problem. The noise you hear is me knocking on wood.
Seven years ago, we carefully followed the re-coating and over-coating instructions for the POR products, and, the coatings are having no problems on the long bed-boards and long frame on my 54/55 GMC.
Does fiberglass filler or long strand fiberglass adhere to cured POR? I have POR on my frame but I am thinking of smoothing it where it pitted. Not too concerned - just curious..
I have used fiberglass cloth with the chassis saver no resin just paint and it stick and dries hard as a rock. I used this on my ford ranger floor were the floor was getting thin and it so far has worked great for two years now. I seen this on u tube and gave it a try.
For near impossible to reach areas use a cavity wax aerosol. 3M and others sell them. Spray a healthy amount and keep on truckin'. If you think about it, rust needs oxygen and moisture to continue so if you cut one or both off, you've done the best you can. POR 15 and fibreglass are not the answer.
