The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Power Windows/Locks Input Needed

I have a 50 GMC 1/2 ton panel. I need suggestions from experienced persons on the following issues for the above vehicle:
- what type and source of power windows works best for this vehicle using stock glass?
- what type and source of power locks works best for this vehicle using stock latches?
- what methods/parts/sources of running wiring to the doors works best?
I'm interested in hearing from other people that have installed pwr. windows and locks to this vintage of vehicle, to see what ideas they have come up with, parts that work best, etc. Thanks!

Pickles,
I haven't got this far myself, but I have been looking at options for my 50 short stepside. In some magazines, Classic Trucks and Custom Classic Trucks, I have seen numerous ads. The one I am looking at is Autoloc.
autoloc.com. They have p/window and locks, and lots more. I like the power window, you can use the factory crank, looks origianl, but power! Nice about aftermarket is that you don't have to mess with it to get it to fit... usually. Hope this is of value to you.

Can't remember the name of the company,but they advertise in the street rod mags. They adapt the OE window mechinism to power. As far as power door locks, if you have power windows make them remote opening and you can forget about the door locks, one less thing to potentialy go wrong. I did my cpe that way in 97 and no trouble so far.

I'm not having trouble locating a power window set-up...as almost any supplier of truck parts (and many others) have them available...and for a wide range of prices. Just checked out set-ups by "Electric-Life" and they look pretty good. My main questions were:
What types have you folks out there used successfully, or which ones to stay away from?
Secondly - who makes a power lock set-up that will work with original-style door latches for a 50 GMC panel truck. I may just have to fit some type of actuators to the door shell to move the lock lever with remote control. Thanks

I have a 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton with power windows. I purchased the kit from Specialy Power Windows and haven't had one problem yet and they have been installed for 6 years. I liked the fact that the vertical guide track is made up of heavy duty steel so their's no flexing....."very important if you plan to keep the metal frame on the one piece door glass". I also purchased door jam pin contacts from Dakota Digital to eliminate wires in the jam. The nice thing about this kit is that it comes with a video to help with the installation.

If your planning to have power door lock then your going to need the strongest solenoid door actuator they make. I think your best bet would be to mount the solenoid about mid level on the door inner panel, mount a pulley on the panel in the area of the door actuating rod that goes from the handle to the door latch and pass a cable up from the solenoid thru a hole drilled in the door panel to allow the cable to come through over the guide pulley and attach to the door actuating arm. When the solenoid is triggered it will pull the stock actuating arm and lock the door. Something like this http://www.50chevy.freeservers.com/Remote_Entry.html#Remote%20Entry%20for%20Smokey

Joe - Thanks for the reply...and a great site as well!
Looking at the diagram, it appears the solenoid can only pull the actuating arm..which is to unlock it, only. What about pushing the arm to lock the latch? Apparently, using a bowden cable instead of a loose pulley/cable will give it power movement in both directions (lock & unlock). The actuating arm also has to move alot more in a forward direction when unlatching the door with the inside handle. Wouldn't this kink the bowden cable? Let me know your thoughts.
Steve

Pickelbus, Maybe I wasn't clear enough on the first post. If you have power windows and have them set up for remote up and down you don't need to use selenoids for the doors you just roll the window down and lock or unlock the door. Then you don't have to monkey with or worry about the cables or rods of the selenoids

Thank you Jack, that is an excellent idea. Unfortunately, I need something where I can unlock the door, grab a tool or something out of the vehicle, then close and lock the door. For the amount of times I have to do this, it would really slow me down or croak the battery. It is an excellent alternative to my problem, until I work something out. You're right about the monkeying part....having the same latch lever do the lock, unlock, and un-latch operations may prove to be quite a feat with a power lock solenoid in the way. Appreciate the input.
I may re-examine the actual latch to see if I can do this in a more isolated manner....there's lots of levers and gears and crap in those latches for me to monkey with (!!)to come up with some idea.

P.S. Plus I still have the rear cargo door lock to consider......

Pickel, your welcome. Where are you in MI? You mention unlatching and unlocking the doors, are you shaving the handles or leaving them on?

howziit Steve!

to prevent the bowden cable from kinking, when unlatching with inside handle, make a slotted hole, where the cable connects, and attach the cable with a clevis pin, and a soft spring anchored to the panel.

make sure the slot starts at the existing hole, and moves ahead, and is long enough for the inside handle to enjoy full travel.

ooops, sorry, will only work for UNLOCKING.

in your case, maybe you could just use the inside handle ONLY if the solenoid malfunctions. all cars have manual OR power locks...not both.

not meaning to insult/disrespect you with this remark.

Jack - I'm located west of Oxford, and 8 miles north of Clarkston. I'm retaining the original outside handles.

Myron - No insult taken! I was ready to reply to your hood gig when I cruised down to see yer other notes. The slot thing won't work; it will only work in one-way applications...like the hood release idea you mentioned. I have to be able to use the inside door handle to open the door from the inside. Just went out to the truck and was fiddling around with a spare OEM latch and handle.
Not looking good. For the solenoid to work for power locks (must push and pull) the solenoid rod must be attached to the lock lever,without a slot, as it has to move the lever in both directions. If mounted in this way, I'm not sure if the solenoid or it's rod wouldn't be smushed or bent when the inside handle is moved to unlatch, as this movement is a very long throw. If the lock lever is slotted to allow this inside handle release movement, the solenoid may not have enough throw to compensate for this slot. (Difficult to verbally articulate this!!) Another issue is the "detent" in the inside handle mech that holds the lock lever in the locked position. The solenoid has to be powerfull enough to pull the whole mess out of this locked position to put into unlocked position. Keep hammering me with ideas - I'm sure one of us (or all) will figure this out. I'm still curious about chevy1's input on this and my question. Best to all - Steve

Hi-

Yeah I originally drew this up for someone who wanted to remotely pop open the door. All you have to do to make it lock is move the cable to the opposite side of the pulley and attach the cable to the arm on the opposite side.

howziit Steve!

have you tried asking the techs at Specialty Windows, and www.autolok.com ?

they SHOULD know the solutions. i imagine they've stumbled across this particular problem before.