My choke has been abandoned and no longer needed. I want to install a simple switch in its place. My issue is the nut on the backside of the dash holding what's left of the choke housing is seized up. With the knob and shaft removed can I just carefully drill out from the front through the center hole until enough material is gone to remove completely. Am I missing anything.
I understand you are talking about the choke cable located in your dash, and you want to remove it. Have you tried a rust buster like PB Blaster? I would try to see if I could loosen it up before I started drilling. I don't know if it is a notched escutcheon or not; ie, is the whole in you dash round, or does it have a notch in it that the cable slides into? Some things to consider before bringing out the hardware, IMO.
~ Victor 1941 3/4-Ton Pickup (in process). Read about it in the DITY Gallery 1955 Grumman Kurbside "Doughboy" 235/3 on tree w/ OD 1957 3100 - moved on 1959 C4500 Short Bus "Magic Bus" - moved on 1959 G3800 1 Ton Dually "Chief" - moved on 1958 C4400 Viking "Thor" ~ moved on to fellow Bolter
I understand...I'll throw some PB Blaster at it and let it set a day or two...no hurry for sure. Am I right thinking the nut threads off by design? Can't tell if there is a notch in the escutcheon can't see the backside. I'll get a mirror and try and get a good look.
I think Kroil is the best and Liquid Wrench isn't too bad for a less effective option. Kroil is expensive, but it works much faster and you use less of it. Get the liquid Kroil in a can and it will last longer...it does not expire, but the aerosol cans can lose pressure over time and I think the product inside them has been diluted a bit.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Kroil is OK...used it extensively when working as a Pipe Fitter @ a 1400 megawatt power plant years ago. I like Blaster because of its clinging ability. I won't think the aerosol version is diluted down. They are positively better than WD-40 for sure.
There was a product made in East Texas 20~25 years ago but sadly it is no longer available. Rumor was the EPA made them stop using some ingredient in it. I never saw it sold anywhere but through HVAC supply houses and it worked like magic. I remember buying it from the 80s up until the mid 90s or so. You'd apply a few drops, finish your coke/coffee/etc and then you could unscrew rusted nuts, bolts, screws with ease. The idea of waiting a day or two while that stuff soaked in? Nope...it was made so guys could finish their work fast and get out of the sun. Even back then it was about $9 for a 2 or 3 ounce bottle but you didn't need much.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Nice looking dash...factory perfect. All original build? Thanks for the look...I still may end up taking my time and carefully drill out the escutcheon.
If you're going to trash the cable housing anyway, just drive a square flute EZ-Out into the hole and grab it with vise grips while you turn the nut off the back side. If that doesn't work, then drill. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
