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#1301068 02/28/2019 11:39 PM
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Rusty Nuts
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Hey I was just about to order five Dexter AM20761B from eTrailer when the sales person said their rims should NOT be used on any vehicle …. only trailers. This is the first I've heard of any such limitations. Is it okay to use these on my 1956 3600 truck guys?

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Bolter
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They are not DOT approved for motor vehicles. 🛠


Martin
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'Bolter
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It's absolutely fine. I bought a set of 15's a couple years ago and they're excellent. Powder coating is so thick you can barely see the "trailer use only" stamping- you have to know where to look.

As far as safety is concerned I feel more confident with them than my original 16's that are usable but you know how it is after 67 years...minor dings here and there, maybe a smidge of runout, not to mention I'm running them without tubes and they're riveted. I also think they're harder to balance.

There's no rivets in the modern wheels and they also have the bead retainer ridge and undoubtedly made to a tighter spec than wheels from almost 70 years ago and don't need the massive balance weights my 16's always seem to need. I say from my own experience--buy with confidence. thumbs_up


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
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Rusty Nuts
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thanks!

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I have a set of 16” 8 lugs on my 1 ton. I have 600 miles on them now. Good so far.

However, one thing I didn’t like was the back side of the wheel had welding spatter underneath the powder coating. I feel that stuff should have been cleaned up before paint. You never see it but it still bugs me.


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Trailer-rated wheels are actually stronger than passenger car ones- - - -but without the DOT number on them they're technically not approved for vehicles. It's all a bunch of C-Y-A for the manufacturers, insisted upon by the legal beagles and the bean counters who are deathly afraid of lawsuits!
Jerry


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Rusty Nuts
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Great, I'm going to buy them based on your comments.. Thanks guys.

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One word of caution, "backspace". I'm running these on my '51 3600. They have .5" backspace and Just do clear the tie-rod ends, actually have a touch mark on one inside wheel weight.

In looking at your wheels I didn't see the offset. Might not be an issue since your truck is a '55, just something to be aware of.


RonR


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You could probably run a 1/4" thick spacer plate behind those wheels and solve that problem, without having to go to longer studs.
Jerry


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Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
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Aren’t most trailer wheels zero offset? I got these, zero offset if I recall, and plenty of clearance on my ‘52. https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=AM20514


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Skooter
Aren’t most trailer wheels zero offset? I got these, zero offset if I recall, and plenty of clearance on my ‘52. https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=AM20514

Agree.........they are 0 offset............plenty of clearance.
There one or two rims with .5” offset.

meets Department of Transportation standards............appears on all the rims.
Key point made earlier.........There's no rivets in the modern wheels and they also have the bead retainer ridge and undoubtedly made to a tighter spec than wheels from almost 70 years ago and don't need the massive balance weights my 16's always seem to need. I say from my own experience--buy with confidence. thumbs_up

Last edited by showkey; 03/01/2019 8:40 PM.

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