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Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 671
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 671
Hello,
First, are the "GMC" doors the same as Chevy truck for the AD years?
Second, how are the doors removed? (6 bolts on cab or 6 on door?) Easiest way?
I have never removed an AD door. Any input would be appreciated.

//Thank you. I may have the opportunity to get a set of doors for free, but they are on the cab. Which I will have to remove.

Great Info, Thank you. The doors are totally complete, with glass and even arm rests. How heavy would you guess one door weights?
Again, Thank you for your input!
*****Update: got the doors off. Only three hinges. Driver's side upper would not come out??? (Looks like a pin is sticking up top left.) How would I remove this? Also how do I confirm the hinges are Original? Marks ECT? I have to go back and grab a few more parts.

Last edited by Shaffer's1950; 02/26/2019 2:39 AM.

1950 Chevy 3100
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,842
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,842
I believe Chevy and GMC doors are the same, but hopefully an expert in this area will chime in to confirm. Do you have access to an engine hoist? I have remove both of my doors to install new weather stripping by using an engine hoist. I lower the window down and run a couple large nylon straps thru the window opening and up to the engine lift's hook. I'm sure there are other ways and hopefully will jump in and give you more details.

Here's a pic of my door dolly:

[img]http://www.cmaynard.com/Truck/TruckDoorDollyB.JPG[/img]


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
First: yes

Second: either way

Take the bolts on the door off first. Pull the door off the hinge.

You will have to adjust the door bolts in order to get each door to match the cab opening.

Replace the hinge “springs” if necessary.

If the hinge pins are loose, you will have to deal with that common reality. Ask about the options, it they are loose.


Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,258
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,258
You can disconnect either way. I think the easiest way is to remove the bolts from the door. When you remove the bolts from the jam, you end up wrestling a heavy door where the hinge, broken spring, wrong angle, etc might hang you up. Removing the bolts from the door gives you a single plane for removal which is moving the door toward the rear of the vehicle. Or, you could just remove all 12 bolts at one time and give it a big yank just to see what happens.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,134
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,134
I vote for unbolting from the door. Messing with the upper hinge after unbolting from the body first is a true pain in the ___. I should know because I did the first one that way.
The engine hoist and strap idea is genius. It would hold the weight of the door and let you pull it straight away from the body, not having to worry about it getting away from you.

Last edited by klhansen; 02/24/2019 7:54 AM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 289
H
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 289
I found an easy way to support the door while unbolting the hinges was to tip a 5 gallon bucket upside down and slide iit under the door. With the glass out of the door it’s pretty manageable and not too heavy.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,134
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,134
Originally Posted by Huck
I found an easy way to support the door while unbolting the hinges was to tip a 5 gallon bucket upside down and slide iit under the door. With the glass out of the door it’s pretty manageable and not too heavy.
That would work too, but you can't let go of the door completely with it partly detached from the hinges. Hanging the door from the top would let you never worry about it crashing to the ground. Height is infinitely adjustable as well with the engine hoist.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,298
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,298
Make sure you take the hinges too. Can't have too many spares. Someone will need them. They are easy to rebuild. Reproduction hinges are junk.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 671
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 671
Great info!
I will not be able to bring my hoist (Great idea)...
I will grab the original parts. Including hinges!
Again, Thank you for All Input.
I will post how it goes.


1950 Chevy 3100

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