The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay '59 Parking Lamps

So I'm trying to figure out why my Painless wiring harness has additional wires coming from the fuse block labeled left and right parking lamps coiled up with zip ties. And yet I have a wire connected to each rubber (boot) socket of both left and right parking lamps labeled turn signals. The other troubling feature is the rubber (sockets) are dangling freely...shouldn't there be an anchor point on the truck for this in and around the lamp housing?

I read something about a dual filament 1034 lamp that acts as both a turn signal and parking lamps.

Could this explain the reason the previous installer realized there wasn't a need for the additional wire run?

Bulb should be 1157. One reason the wire is marked right and left is maybe the wire was made longer to reach the right lamp. The right turn signal wire will be longer than the left. And if you want an amber lamp instead a clear use 1157A bulb. Does both jobs.

Roy> OK...so why the provisions by Painless to have Parking lamps wires? With only a (1) blade terminal how is it both parking and turn signals can be satisfied?

You can use a single filament bulb and socket if you just want turn, no park.

Otherwise you need dual filament bulb and sockets.
The wiring for the dual is:
1. Wire from turn sig switch to left lamp turn filament.
2. Wire from turn sig switch to right lamp turn filament.
3. Wire from light switch to Park left filament.
4. Jumper wire from left park filament to right park filament.
They are routed down the left inner fender. Then some cross over on the radiator support to right side.
You can wire the park function to be only on with light knob half way pulled out and also stay on with headlights. Full pull out.

The boots fit over the lamp socket tail, or lamp housing lip. The rear of the boot is loose. Oriented in a sensible position.

We don't know what exactly painless gave you for this. Follow their instructions and my list. If not sure of the wiring, post more questions. Glad to help, but don't ask us why Painless did something.

Dual filament means two filaments inside one bulb. Each filament has it's own contact and wire. So that's what my list is talking about.

The grounding is equally important and is done by bulb case touching socket, socket touching housing, housing screwed to fender, fender/body sheet metal/frame/motor eventually touching the batter negative post using braided straps along the way. Up to you to build and maintain this path.

I don't have a Painless wiring diagram. Its what I inherited. Alright from what you describe in a great drill down list...I can settle for one or the other.

The boot issue is something is still under investigation. Thanks for your knowledge...

I understand. You will have to post pics or give part numbers of what you have to get detailed info on the boots and other. We don't know exactly what you have and if you have the parts we think you have. you will get this done, no problem. Hope you have a wiring diagram of some sort. It may be possible to view a Painless diagram and instructions online. Their colors will match a 59 diagram probably. I have a 55-59 shop manual and can look at the wiring if I need to. Is your turn signal unit a clamp-on-the-column type? Signal Stat? or factory looking?

Painless diagrams are available online. 🛠

Fellows very little about this truck is original anymore. The tilt steering column is from a late model Chevy of unknown origin...with column ignition switch. So its harness along with the newer ATO fuse block have been integrated in the not so distant past.

Back to the single wire and rubber boot hanging just inside the grill on either side. Again, the Painless wires are marked for right turn signal, left turn signal and left and right parking lights. With only a single wire to attach either one of these. How did the factory in '59 achieve having a running and a turn signal lamp option with a single filament bulb.

I believe there must be an upgrade required to housings in order to have both. And certainly a dual filament 1034.

This is more than likely why the previous installer opted out of upgrading and just coiled up the excess running light wire.

I'm not sure yet because I recently purchased our 59 Apache, but I think the trucks did not come with turn signals. Just parking lamps. Turn signals were added later. So the extra wires may be for the enthusiast who wants all original ? Ours had a burnt out front turn signal and I replaced it with a spare 1157 dual filament bulb bc thats what I removed. The turn signal on ours looks aftermarket bolted on.

Good Luck!
RK

That makes sense although the truck came with brake lights and one would have thought turn signals as well. Huh....well its looking like I can settle for turn signals only w/o allot of additional unnecessary work modifying the housings to accept parking lights.

wouldn't you only have to change out the parking lamp buckets with park/turn ones? use same lenses? Then you'd have two wires coming out of them? I have no idea how hard those would be to find or how much either.

RK

Just get a new insert that has two wire pig tail, insert into your bulb holder .Done now you have it done if the glass is clear use amber bulb

You can see the complete unit 47-021 on this page. It shows other half of the connector to the one you show. They are not boots. Your half fits into a hole (the groove in the rubber) in the fender/sheet metal front and the 47-021 plugs into it. It's a bulkhead connector. You will find the hole on either side if it's still original in that area.

Also see 47-905 and the bezel and lens parts you may need depending on what you already have for park housing/sockets/lenses etc.

The column looks like it would have the proper harness coming out at the bottom somewhere.
Forget what I said about boots earlier, I was thinking 55-57 style park.
Are you sure there is only one contact blade inside each "boot"/connector??? The wire/insulation looks pretty big to be just one wire. Are you calling it one wire just because it looks like one wire? or are there two wires inside the insulation????

YOU CAN"T DRIVE AT NIGHT WITHOUT TURN SIGNALS. You should not hesitate in installing them for day and night.

Classic Parts link BIG help. So, the 47-905 upgrade kit will allow me to have both parking/turn signals. I need to explore the buckets/housings to see what is what. Somebody half-*#@@* it. Will report back

Only has the single blade (see pic) page one... that's throwing me off.

I see the pic. Show me a straight on pic. Tell me there is only one wire inside that insulation. Tell me there is no blank hole for another contact inside that connector that's hanging.

Also, what, if anything, do you have that looks like a parking brake light/bezel/lens??? Pics? If you have nothing but a fender hole, you need 47-021 and 47-434.

Regarding adding park and turn:
You are making this EXTRA hard by not stating what YOU HAVE in your box of parts or on the truck front end. I already said earlier we can't tell you what you need until we know what you have. If you don't know what you have, dig thru it all and give us some pics. Use the page I linked to see what you are missing. LMC and Brothers Trucks probably have exploded views in the online catalog of that area.

OK here we go...single blade...same on opposite side...yes heavy wire both sides maybe 14 gauge (guessing). Can't tell much with clear lens off (amber) single filament bulb. I do know the previous owner bought a new grill which looks like the housings where bought at the same time?

As you can see, the blade is off to one side and the whole thing is big. Seems to be designed for a second or third blade. I know I'm harping on this allot. Can you please take a picture WITH GOOD LIGHTING so I can see down into the connector and see the entire bottom? I will not give up on the idea that is it designed for more than one blade. I will not give up until you show me. I believe the 59 came with turn sigs. You don't make a connector like that for one blade. You will not win this battle.

Take out that bulb and see how many contacts are down inside socket. See how many contacts are on the bottom of the bulb. What is coming out the back of that light? I'm not trying to disrespect you. I am assuming you don't know electrical so I am being sure before I recommend action. Take good, well lit, pics of all that.

If you stay with it and remain commited, we will get to the bottom and we will give you all the necessary info/answers. I have given answers before, without checking everything out from a poster who is not up on wiring. I'm not going to do it anymore.

If you see the "light" and don't need any more help on park/turn, be sure to let me know.

I appreciate you bearing down on this matter with me. I can tell you that the rubber molded connector appears to room and evidence from the mold there could be a dedicated spot parallel to the existing blade. Now why this was not used who knows. You mentioned the '59 model year may have had both turn signals as well as its parking lights. Could you verify that against your period correct wiring diagram if that is something available to you and close at hand.
The bulb has a single contact. Took a mirror to look at the back of the housing...single wire passing through a rubber boot securely attach to the back of the housing. All single wire components.

It's all coming back now. Spend enough time on the web and you will find it. If I want to spend roughly 50.00 a pop these are available. Two wire upgrade problem solved.

The shop manual I have shows wiring for "optional" turn signals. It covers 55-59. The GM Heritage site has no mention of Turn Signals and the 1959 Supplement to the 55-59 Shop manual does not mention T/S. So assume that actual factory was not offered until 1960.

Assume that T/S was still an option or accessory in 59, as evidenced by your 59 wiring. In 1958 and 1959 trucks were probably "set up" for turn signals by using a modifiable connector. You are probably able to push in a contact, not sure. At any rate, it is all wired as I described. You will need 55-149 or 47-905 to modify your park housing. Not sure which. If you need to abandon that one-contact rubber connector and just wire the park/turn direct, that is no big deal and probably easier for you.

The next issue is to determine that you have a turn signal switch inside your column and you have it's harness coming out the bottom area.

So the plan is:
1. Modify the socket in the park light housing to accept a dual bulb using the available parts linked AND other 58-59 members advice on this.
2. Confirm your column has an operating turn signal switch. Probably does.
3. Find the harness from it. If it's a GM column, the colors should help in the wiring hook up. Piece of cake.

What is going on with the rest of the wiring? Stop and turn in the rear?

Just saw your new post as I was typing and thinking. Problem solved? I guess, if you add another contact, and wire, to the mate of that amber light's connector. As you can see, the contacts are not parallel, they are perpendicular to create a "keyed" plug in. Don't forget, you have to splice one of those wires to travel to other side of truck. My wiring explanation is on page 1.

FYI: You don't need amber, you can use most of what you have to save money. Buy a clear or amber lens if you need lenses. Take the unit off and go to the bench to add a dual socket.................or all new is fine with me. It's your money. Could be way easier for you.

Yes, I made the purchase clean seamless one and done. What might have got lost in the conversation is I already have the spliced parking light (wiring) harness ready to go. I think the amber is a better choice...IMHO.
This slight hiccup got in the way of my dual electric fan project...wanted to get this upfront lighting sorted out before proceeding.

Well, I'm going to eat crow this evening.....but that's par for the course with me. This parking light upgrade just took a hard left turn and has come to a screeching halt this afternoon. The 12 circuit fuse block in this truck is a EZ-wiring product with color coded and printed circuit ID wires. Haven' t found the other end of the Parking Light wire yet...rats nest. Something told me to take a look at the headlight switch and verify what was what on its contacts. I came across a picture on the web that closely resembled my switch. The blades are numbered and the N0. 7 terminal on this particular switch is missing, which is designated for Parking lights. (see pictures). Not sure of age of this switch or what it may have been out of originally. It certainly is not a '59 design. So even if I bought an aftermarket '59 switch it may not have the parking light terminal needed. As thought from an earlier discussion '59's didn't have parking lights.
Further, I have been questioning all along why the single lamp wiring. The new wiring harness through me off. New upgraded Parking/Turn Signal assemblies on their with no way to power them up at the moment.
Recommendations....thought...

TF trucks had park lights, NOT "running lights" [always on], but there's a simple tech tip to rig it that way if you want

park lights only were standard for TF trucks, turn sigs an optional add on from 55 on, which included park lamps for 2 pin bulbs - see an accessory install instruction here, full wiring diagram a few pages further along

that switch is nothing like original [wiring shown here], which should be available from most repro suppliers and will have the park light terminal - but you do need the 2 pin socket in the lights, and a replacement socket should be available at a FLAPS

Bill

FLAPS?

FLAPS = Favorite Local Auto Parts Store

That's one acronym I never used...LOL

Decision made. Truck is wired for turn signals...will leave it that way. Returning fixtures...will continue to use existing switch. All of this motion wasn't necessary at all. I'm leaving well enough alone. Who needs park lighting anyway...to much time, money and energy expended for such little reward.

Many newer vehicles run with headlights on all the time. You don't really need park lights for "parking" or for twilight running. Using them for turn only makes sense in your case. You can still change your mind later.

Thanks for your support. I need to finish my electric dual fan installation.