Looking for recommendations on what to do with rebuilding my brake system. Keep stock or ???? I'll be running the 216 for a spell once I get it up and running but I'm contemplating dropping a small block V8 later on down the road.
Are you driving your truck now or is it close to running with the 216 or are you in the middle of restoring it?
Stock brakes are fine for a stock 216 but not sufficient for higher powered engines..
If you're currently driving it redoing the stock brakes is fine.
If you're restoring it and have designs on repowering it, now would be the good time to upgrade the brakes to a dual master cylinder and disc's up front. Adding a power booster will make it stop like a modern vehicle.
Not currently driving it. I'm going to completely replace the entire brake system and looking to buy everything now. I've been contemplating disc front wheels but the thought of cost savings keeping it as stock is always on my mind.
You don't have to go with disc's right off the bat, you could add them later. When it comes to the brakes don't cut corners, do them right. There are dual reservoir master cyl kits available that bolt up where the OEM master cyl does. You could then plumb your truck for separate front and back brake circuits which would give you alittle better stopping power with your drum/shoe brakes. Adding disc's is a pretty steep expense whether you do it upfront or afterwards. They do provide better stopping power tho....
You don't have to go with disc's right off the bat, you could add them later. When it comes to the brakes don't cut corners, do them right. There are dual reservoir master cyl kits available that bolt up where the OEM master cyl does. You could then plumb your truck for separate front and back brake circuits which would give you alittle better stopping power with your drum/shoe brakes. Adding disc's is a pretty steep expense whether you do it upfront or afterwards. They do provide better stopping power tho....
Good luck Dave
I'm currently looking at the dual master cylinder Brothers Trucks offers.
Was that master cylinder a dual reservoir for front and rear drum brakes with manual transmission? All the ones I seem to locate for drum brakes are for automatic transmissions.
I’ll have a look for the link it was non boosted, just adds the dual feature. I find the boosted master cylinders are advertised for autos as the floor mounted booster interferes with the stock trans crossmember.
I did some parts researching and pricing and have decided to go front disc / rear drum. With that upgrade and replacing everything else in the system (not including the drums themselves) it looks like I can do it for just under $2k. I can live with that and knowing my family and I will be safe going down the road!
Engine, tranny, rear end after the front end for me then electrical or body work after that. Gotta have a plan and gotta have short term goals to achieve the ultimate goal/vision!
I’ve got most that done now. Axle shafts were scored and I just found decent used ones. Just have rubber brake components and tie rod to do and it’s essentially ready for the road. It’s pretty much stock and will start updating, not restoring, over time.
Thanks for that link. Just received the adapter bracket and it seems very solid and durable. Nice anodized 1/4" thick, $88 shipped.
Plan to start converting my '52 3100 single-res master tomorrow. Will remain drum/drum, under the floor. Ordered the dual master listed for '67 C10 drum/drum from Rockauto, was approx $50 shipped.
Hope it fits oriented as shown in picture with master "inside" the bracket so to speak, rubber boot facing forward as original. If all goes well I'll post an update asap!
Matthew 6:33
1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100 Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55 Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216) www.truckwithaheart.com
Drum, drum no proportioning valve needed. I just did it to my ‘62 and added power assist.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Is there any reason to not use 3/16 brake lines coming out of both MC ports? Tighter bend will give an inch more side clearance to transmission, and the SM420 weighs 42,000 lbs so removal even with a cherry picker one wrong sway could damage stuff. Clearance space is good. Originally there's a 1/4 line going across bellhousing crossmember to passenger side (RF and both rear brakes), so I'd prefer 1/4 if I had my druthers but space is critical.
FYI, picture shows MC to rear trans support crossmember clearance with the Performance Online setup.
Matthew 6:33
1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100 Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55 Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216) www.truckwithaheart.com
Attached pic looks straight up from floor. You can see the floor plug for original MC access. I don't know why they couldn't make the bracket to fit the dual MC in its original location under the floor access plug!! No worries, my floorboards aren't concours perfect so I've got a 3 inch metal cutting hole saw on the way, will simply have two floor plugs instead of one. MC lid can easily be removed from underneath truck, then fluid poured in from top.
For trans clearance remember it has to be moved back toward the brake lines before it's lifted out.
Matthew 6:33
1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100 Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55 Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216) www.truckwithaheart.com
Attached pic looks straight up from floor. You can see the floor plug for original MC access. I don't know why they couldn't make the bracket to fit the dual MC in its original location under the floor access plug!! No worries, my floorboards aren't concours perfect so I've got a 3 inch metal cutting hole saw on the way, will simply have two floor plugs instead of one. MC lid can easily be removed from underneath truck, then fluid poured in from top.
For trans clearance remember it has to be moved back toward the brake lines before it's lifted out.
A couple places offer a larger access panel as well. Brothers being the better quality one that I’ve seen.
Bonus: my sound abatement methods consisting of an old ripped floormat topped by a layer of 3/8?? carpet padding stuff followed by the nice floormat...actually pretty effective.
Anyways, I've always been fundamentally opposed to any departure from original. If there's any cutting of sheetmetal I want it to be as little as possible (although the cover Lindsey mentioned is ohh so tempting...and expensive). Received 3-inch holesaw today and promptly cut the MC access hole. Still need to order another original type floor plug. It's about 1/4-inch wider than MC lid and I can just reach in, grab and retrieve without crawling under the truck, another bonus.
Matthew 6:33
1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100 Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55 Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216) www.truckwithaheart.com
Dual master cylinder and access door showed up today. I ended up going with the kit from POL. I tried ordering from Brothers but they turned around and wanted a lot extra in shipping. Ill try installing once weather smartens up outside.
Is there any reason to not use 3/16 brake lines coming out of both MC ports? Tighter bend will give an inch more side clearance to transmission, and the SM420 weighs 42,000 lbs so removal even with a cherry picker one wrong sway could damage stuff. Clearance space is good. Originally there's a 1/4 line going across bellhousing crossmember to passenger side (RF and both rear brakes), so I'd prefer 1/4 if I had my druthers but space is critical.
FYI, picture shows MC to rear trans support crossmember clearance with the Performance Online setup.