My 46, 3100 has 6V dynamo and regulator on it I need a 12v alternator for the original motor I'm from the UK, but working in Ogden, Utah right now, so want to get me an alternator as its a lot less $ than the UK
Looking at a 12v 10si, I can see them on ebay, 100 amps, for around $60, don't need chrome
1 wire is the easiest to convert. I did mine about 2 years ago. Piece of cake. There are a lot of post here about the swap. You have to make sure you account for the voltage change. Horn and starter will be okay. All of your lights will need to be upgraded. (headlights, tail lights, dash lights) Gas gauge will need to be changed or a voltage reducer put in line. Some people have said their heater motor runs find with the switch and some have reported them burning up. Mine did not survive the conversion. It took some searching but I found an electric motor for about $35 at Autozone that was a straight swap. There is also several post hear about that swap including the part number for the motor.
Thanks for the reply, eveything else has been converted to 12v, just need to keep some power in the battery now I can make it fit, read plenty on that Just wanted to know which one to get
Sorry, I would get the three wire. 1. It's a better way to go, not hard to hook up. 2. If you decide you want "1 wire", it can be wired that way. A "1 wire" is just wired that way already.....inside. A "new" 1 wire is a bit of a scam.
A standard Delco Remy 10Si is a great idea. Get a good one because of the U.K. price issue. Ebay has zero warranty.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
I don't see a description. I looks like it's an alternator in a generator style case. To be "original" looking. You are bouncing from 10Si to that? Can't keep up with you
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Seems to me that using a 12 volt generator (dynamo -- a term I like better -- we should use that) would look better in there, especially if he is going the original route. I've been contemplating that upgrade myself for the '49. I think I know the advantages an alternator brings to the table, but unless he wants to run a lot of 12-volt accessories, why wouldn't a 12 volt dynamo (and 12 volt voltage regulator) work for him? He would have to remember to put the voltage step downs in line to things that don't convert to 12 volts so easily (like the fuel tank sending unit, etc).
Wait a minute .... I seem to recall that I wrote a tech tip on 12-volt conversion a long time ago -- maybe it's still good?
~ John
A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.
1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 1963 Kaiser M38A1 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
Sorry, I would get the three wire. 1. It's a better way to go, not hard to hook up. 2. If you decide you want "1 wire", it can be wired that way. A "1 wire" is just wired that way already.....inside. A "new" 1 wire is a bit of a scam.
A standard Delco Remy 10Si is a great idea. Get a good one because of the U.K. price issue. Ebay has zero warranty.
Agreed....... go to mad electrical.com for the reason you want a 3 wire vs. 1 wire. Great little tutorial there.
Basically, one wire is for a tractor with maybe a headlight......any electrical requirements beyond that you’re better off with the. internally regulated 3 wire 10si or 12si as you’ve indicated.
Tony, old chap, don't know if the original looking dynamo you linked would be called a one wire or ? I don't have anything against using that physical style. Looks pretty neat. Should fit the existing brackets I guess. Find out if it is 3 wire or not. In my opinion, you would want an internally regulated dynamo so as to abandon the regulator and it's wires. You can leave the regulator "black box" mounted and hide a spare key in it. The latest Delco 10si link you posted, $45.........splendid. Good luck getting that bomb looking thing thru the airport.
NOTICE: The one you linked could be REBUILT and has a core charge of $25 and shipping and maybe tax. So $70 plus ship and tax. You probably don't want rebuilt?? They don't say it's rebuilt but some customer comments say it is. Ask Summit.
If you want to just go get one at O'Reilly's Auto Parts, it's N111624A $85 for a new one plus $10 core. R111624A $57 for rebuilt plus $15 core. I looked at the application for the Summit one. There are many, many applications. I just chose 1975 Chevy Bel Air 350 motor when I looked on O'Reilly's site. You can go to any auto parts and ask for that. New or Rebuilt.
I don't know why there is a core charge for new.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Thanks for all the advice I've decided to go with an internally regulated unit from a UK supplier, will cost me a little bit more $$, but then I havent got to get it on an aircraft and it looks a lot more original
(and 12 volt voltage regulator) work for him? He would have to remember to put the voltage step downs in line to things that don't convert to 12 volts so easily (like the fuel tank sending unit, etc).
I seem to recall that I wrote a 
