Thank you for the add to Stovebolt, I have done some very brief research via your forum on previous occasions and have found it to be one great place for information.
I have been a classic car and truck nut for many years. I just got a 1953 3100 a few weeks ago with manuals and documentation that makes me the 6th owner of it with 68k original miles and was ground up restored and been a garage queen for the 18 years.
In video and pics I received prior to shipping, I did not notice any problems with the brake pedal location, but owner mentioned that it may need a master cylinder. I see it was a little low on fluid and added. Brake pedal seem to be coming thru the firewall to far and is facing more in a downward position. The return spring seems good and seems to have good brake pressure and I see there is adjustments at Master cylinder, but do not think this would be the problem, since it occurred during the loading and shipping to me. At the firewall were the brake pedal comes thru appears to be an slotted hole with no felt or rubber bushing, just an about 3/4" slotted hole were the pedal passes thru the firewall. When I pull back about a 1/4" inch at the master cylinder it appears to put in more in to right position. I am thinking maybe it may have lost a bushing or something that would position it correctly at the pedal and firewall pass thru area, but need to get to the right forum to get answers. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, dsave
I believe there should be a thick rubber washer on the pedal shaft below the floorboard to establish the right pedal height and also act as a dust seal to keep dirt and debris from getting into the cab through the hole in the floor. A good substitute for the OEM washer would be a few pieces of tire sidewall cut into about a 2" washer with a center hole that's a snug fit around the pedal shaft. Cut an angled slot in each washer and glue them together with trim cement after placing them onto the pedal shaft. One of the resto-ripoff parts places might have the original dust seals, but junk tires are cheap and plentiful. Once the pedal height is correct, then adjust the master cylinder linkage to make sure the brakes release correctly with the pedal topped out. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
It looks to me from you pic, that the brake pedal shaft is not at the correct angle. The fact that the hole in the toeboard is slotted would tend to confirm this. It should be a round hole and the pedal shaft should not make any contact with the toeboard. The adjustment to this pedal shaft angle is done under the hood where the pedal shaft is bolted to the brake lever. The contact area between the pedal shaft end and the end of the brake lever has numerous serrations in it to maintain a tight fit. It is very easy to bolt this together in the incorrect position. Removal of the brake pedal return spring will make this correction much easier. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
THANK YOU FOR YOUR REPLIES ! I had a friend come down today to check out the truck and exactly like your reply. Adjusted the tilt for the pedal from the engine bay. Very simple and easy fix and will go with the seal recommendation above also. dave
There is a thick steel washer that goes in the front of the master cyl. behind the snap ring. If someone left out this washer or the snap ring came out, it would allow the pedal to come back to far. George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
Welcome to the Bolt. Once you get that rig up and running to your likings,,,,,,drive the pup!
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Welcome to stovebolt. This is the best place to find out about your truck. What I like about it is the good people on here will never make you feel dumb. We are here to help. Just like they' ve helped me so many times. If you're not sure about something just post a question and you will get an answer. Welcome aboard!!
Got the truck out on a short run today. The pedal started to move again. The drive was wonderful and everything was good except for that. I am going to undo the nut and bolt in the engine bay area and see what the problem may be. There is a lot of stress on the joint of that connection that runs it down to the master cylinder. Thanks again to all replies, I am going to luv this place, full of knowledgeable people and lot of reference material. dave
The adjustment to this pedal shaft angle is done under the hood where the pedal shaft is bolted to the brake lever. The contact area between the pedal shaft end and the end of the brake lever has numerous serrations in it to maintain a tight fit. It is very easy to bolt this together in the incorrect position. Removal of the brake pedal return spring will make this correction much easier. Carl
Carl, are you saying the pedal arm can be adjusted down on the brake lever arm? Is this for all years of the Advance Design trucks? Any idea if there is a diagram of this somewhere?
Dave, welcome, it's your forum now too. That's a really great looking truck you have there! Any chance I could talk you into taking a pic of the area Carl is talking about under the hood? (Where the brake pedal arm connects with the brake lever thingie) I'm having a similar but very different problem. My brake pedal and connecting arm hits the exhaust manifold of the 350 small block I just put in it.
Carl, are you saying the pedal arm can be adjusted down on the brake lever arm? Is this for all years of the Advance Design trucks? Any idea if there is a diagram of this somewhere?
Dave, welcome, it's your forum now too. That's a really great looking truck you have there! Any chance I could talk you into taking a pic of the area Carl is talking about under the hood? (Where the brake pedal arm connects with the brake lever thingie) I'm having a similar but very different problem. My brake pedal and connecting arm hits the exhaust manifold of the 350 small block I just put in it.
Sorry to impose on your thread.
If you are asking if you can adjust the pedal into a different angle than stock to avoid contact with a too-big V8, then I say no. It only goes on right one way. It can however go on more than one way wrongly, but that will cause interference with the toeboard as the pedal shaft tries to move through it. What manifolds are you using? I use rams horns without any interference with anything.
Last edited by 52Carl; 02/07/20192:59 AM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
A too big V8, I've never heard of such a thing. I'm gonna have to Google that to see if it's a real thing.
I'm using stock 70's manifolds. I tried to get a pic, but it's a little too tight. There was a thread recently about this. I'm using the same manifolds that were recommended. Apparently they were used on camaro. If I had put the motor about 1/2 of an inch forward There wouldn't be a problem. Oh well, just puzzles to solve.
just mark or anybody when installing the v8 did you have to move the stering at all, i was thing about a v8 chevy small block and keep reading about having to move the stering box
Use an exhaust manifold from a 55-57 265 passenger car engine. The outlet is at the front, and it gives enough clearance for the steering box that it doesn't have to be moved. They're on Ebay pretty often, and they don't cost much. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
