The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Pushrod hydraulic lifter question.

Have the intake manifold and valve covers off for a change over. Gave the rocker arms a wiggle out of habit. One was very loose, like 3/16” between the rocker and push rod. Checked all the usual, stud height, push rod, etc. The center of the lifter is up but can’t be forced down so far. So, decided to pull it and it will not come out. I think there is a carbon ring buildup on its bottom section. Anyone have a trick to get lifters out of the block when this happens short of a tear down. BTW, this motor looks to be “Rode hard, put up wet”. 283c.i.

There is a combination slide hammer/puller sold by Lisle that's made for pulling stubborn lifters. You need to pull the spring clip out of the top of the lifter and expand the internal jaws of the puller into that groove, then tap or jackscrew the lifter out of the bore. I'm going to wager you'll find the bottom of the lifter badly worn, and the part sticking out of the block above the cam is "mushroomed". Bottom line- - - -the lifter (and the cam) are both junk. There will be a corresponding amount of wear on the cam lobe. If the lifter is topped out and there's still clearance, chances are the cam lobe is worn almost round and the base circle is way undersized. Does the lifter move up and down as you crank the engine? Also check to see if the stud has pulled out of the head a little- - - - -it's just a press fit.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769248

Jerry

I turned the motor by hand thinking the cam lobe might be the problem. The lifter (sans pushrod) come up to, what looks like, normal height. I didn’t put a dial indicator on it to measure extactly. It’s going to a a pickle to get that snap ring off while lifter is sitting in block. May just weld a nut or something to the side to grab and figure on replacing it anyway. Why the slop...is puzzling. Thanks

I just use an ice pick or an awl to pop the snap ring out- - - -it's pretty flimsy and the lifter is probably trashed anyway. A 1/4" nut tack welded on top and a piece of all thread instead of a pushrod would make a pretty good improvised puller. Just tighten a nut and washer at the pushrod hole in the cylinder head and crank the lifter out.

What's the possibility of a bent or stuck valve, not getting closed all the way?
Jerry

Got that ‘sucker’ out! Had to invent a tool to do it. Grime in the oil gallery was not letting the bottom section come up. Only thing seen so far is stud is 3/32” higher that the others. Guess I’ll drop a new lifter in the hole, adjust everything and ‘light the fire’. Going to run a couple of quarts of Kroil engine cleaner with several oil changes through it to clean out the crud. Got to get radiator back from repair shop, then we’ll see. Thanks for the help.

I'd suggest driving the stud back down to the same height as the others, and cross-pinning it with a 1/8" roll pin like we used to do on the race engines before screw-in studs were invented. Drill the stud boss slightly off-center so the drill bit just nicks the stud a little, drive a roll pin in, and drive on. The stud will never move again unless the whole stud boss breaks off.
Jerry

Beltfed, I would recommend dropping the oil pan, I pulled my engine and tranny 'cause it needed a clutch and camshaft. I figured I'd do a little degreasing but it turned into desludging. The oil pump pick-up screen and bottom of the pan was real bad. I didn't pull the heads or rotating assembly but everything else came off the engine and cleaned/rebuilt, I'm glad I took the extra time and a few bucks for a gasket set. One lobe on the cam was gone to the point of no valve movement but all of the lifters came out without a puller, if the oil galley is that bad in your motor you may want to check further.

I’ll take the cross pin thing under consideration. Not where I want to be with this engine. There are so many other issues on the car that need to be addressed. Pulling the oil pan will be a sure fire way to drive me back to Mr. Daniels fine products, but needs doing. Thanks.

Before you go to the trouble of pulling the pan, try a Diesel fuel flush to dislodge the majority of the crud. Fill the engine with clean (cheap) oil, and then add 2-3 quarts of Diesel fuel, enough to let the crankshaft whip down into the oil. It will splash the solvent-added oil around like the agitator in a washing machine and do a better cleaning than you could ever do with a brush. Run the engine for 20-30 minutes at 1500 RPM or so, and don't put any driving load on it. Drain the oil while it's still hot, and most of the crud inside will also drain out. That procedure will also clean the valve lifter valley, the heads, and the valve covers, if you haven't given them a good scrubbing already.
Jerry