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I have a '54 6100 Dump Truck. It still has the straight 6 235ci. Has anyone swapped in a bigger motor? What are my options for a bigger motor if I decide to swap? I use my truck to pull a 20' 10,000lb GVWR trailer w/ my Kubota Tractor. With the trailer and tractor the total weight is 7500-8000 lbs. Plus sometimes I would like to go a little faster down the road.

The 261 six is a drop-in swap for a 235, but run the casting and serial numbers on your present engine first- - - -it's pretty likely your "235" is actually a 261 already. Anything more powerful, like a 292 Chevy or Ford 300 6 cylinder, or a big block V8 will require a lot of modifications- - - -different motor mounts, bellhousing, exhaust, etc. A 55-62 V8 bellhousing will allow you to keep your current transmission and driveline setup more or less intact and fit a Chevy V8 or a 292 six with minimal modifications. Don't waste your time on a small block V8- - - -it won't have enough torque for a full grown truck like yours.
Jerry

Where will I find the casting and serial numbers?

Hello, kclark2227

A 261 was an RPO (Regular Production Option) on 5000 and 6000 series 1954 Chevrolet trucks (a 235 was standard equipment). As posted above, a 261 was a desirable (and common) option on big trucks. For 1957 and later 5000 & 6000 series trucks, the 261 was standard equipment.

If you want to ID your head/block, find and post the codes shown on this page.

If you swap-in a later non-54/55st 235/261 engine, you will want to install a water pump adapter that places a water pump in the correct location. Ask here for information on how to do that.

You have a 6.17:1 rear end ratio - that will significantly affect your top speed (with any engine).

I found 2 numbers. B27913241570 & 0382731T54P

https://photos.app.goo.gl/oineRfKPwVB44mhi7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tkLPS4cst8TknHzL8

The first image is neither the block casting code, nor the block date casting code.

Second image: Engine serial number ending in T54P
1954 235 engine on a 6000 series truck - engine made in Tonawanda, NY

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/54057.htm

That cylinder head in the first picture is newer than a 54, isn't it? It looks like it has a 4-bolt valve cover on it.
Jerry

1954 engines had four bolt/screw valve covers.

12v Cummins?

Detroit 60! 14 liters of stump-pulling torque!
Jerry

Beware, the engine serial number may be the VIN number used on your title, if so don't scrap the engine until you get an alternate number worked out with your DMV.

Mike B

My VIN is off the body tag in the driver's door opening. I'm also in NC where they don't use engine numbers for VIN just for the reason you mentioned.

Doesn't matter where you are, the vehicle could have come from somewhere that did use the engine number as the VIN and it was never corrected/updated. Therefore good advice for anyone with a new to them old truck to double check. I'm about done getting one corrected/updated, possible but not quick or as simple as you might hope.

kclark2227,

Is your truck already registered in NC?
Do you know approximately when it was first registered in NC?

Is there a ID plate between the hinges on the driver's side door (that does looks like it has never been removed)?
Is that code on your NC registration/title?
If not, is that code on whatever title/registration you have?

NC uses the door tag code (and, might look for a non-existent code on the frame, under the cab).

NC does not accept an engine code and will not accept a door plate code that looks like it has ever been removed - even if it was removed for painting.

All of the above notwithstanding, the DMV requires a frame code to be found - good luck finding that one.

Some modification require, but look in to the LL8 engines with a 4L80E behind it. Not a direct drop in, but an in line 6 with enough HP, torque and RPM to accomplish what you are trying to do....

OK, you get my 2 cents. Back in late 70's I owned a 1972 5500 GMC that had a 4 bolt 350 engine with big 2 barrel. I hauled 2000 gallons of water plus tank in a 9 ft dump bed 5+2 speed. Yea could always want more but I would think would stay up/surpass a 261 with a few more rpm's. Maybe the torque of an L98 or like would be a choice.

If your keeping the original rear axle then faster top end is going to make any motor scream. My 283 has plenty of power with the stock gearing but topped out against the governor at 45mph, I haven't hooked up a tach but the factory specs say 4000rpm, I wouldn't want to turn this old motor any faster but a fresh small block could handle higher rpm's.