My name is Mathew and i am building up a right hand drive delivered 1958 viking 1.5 tonne in Australia.
I have tried to do most things myself and have wanted to put together a journal , saw this and thought why not.
It has been kept all mechanical with a Cummins 6bt that is ready to install.
At the moment finishing firewall mods and fixing some rust in the cab area.
Just got back my front springs and getting ready to put the front axle and front brake upgrade together.
It has the nv4500 gearbox and dana 80 rear end, yet to weld in my pinion angles as i need to get ride height right first and finish restoring the rear springs.
Been putting in time every day on the Viking, It seems to take forever but a bit every day will get there sooner.
Looking back at purchase receipt and it is actually nearly 5 years since first purchasing truck.
IT has been shipped from state to state over 1000kms from initial purchase place, and come with me each time moving house since then (3 times).
Little bit of insight for Stovebolters in the USA, we have very strict automotive design rules and regulations on Australian roads, so many modification to a vehicle need to be signed off by an engineer for a vehicle to be deemed roadworthy and legally driven on the roads.
Initial plans were talked over with an engineer, he knocked a few back saying they would be very difficult to get passed and offered alternatives such as putting my Viking cab on a c30 chev chassis.
To me that was not a true 1958 Chev truck, I wanted the original and figured out ways to keep the 1958 chassis whilst still integrating my driveline and braking upgrades albeit with some extra challenges thrown in
Works completed so far include cross member modifications to accept the Cummins 6bt, This required a drop in the front and 2nd crossmember, tried to keep standard looking chassis by moulding in parts from spare chassis to keep original look. They were both re-enforced with spare crossmember pieces I had acquired. Motor and gearbox mounts were designed with a friend (thanks Brett) and in consultation with an engineer. Mounts sit the engine and gearbox on a 5 degree rearward slant when chassis is level (will get the pics up soon - any recommendations for uploading lots of photos?) wire brushing the frame and painting with POR15 - soon to get more and a top coat as it has gone chalky. Front springs have been serviced and raised a little for the desired stance once complete, bushes and pins have been replaced, front spring perches required inserts to repair where the old pins had made oval shaped holes
One of the biggest challenges has been the braking system upgrade, now remember how i said that we have very stringent vehicle requirements when modifying vehicles - stay with me here One of those requirements is that any hubs or axle upgrades that you use on your modified vehicle must then be the same track width as the vehicle from which they came from. I am hoping that the next little bit of information does not get me kicked off the site, there is profanity.. ready.. here it is FORD parts were used.. sorry in advance!
The front disc upgrade that would meet the requirements for my front track width using the standard front axle (think its the heavy duty 2 tonne one) was the 2015 ford f350 2wd front hubs. 14.3 inch discs
The inner front bearing cone from these hubs can be retained with the original 1958 chev roller bearing, the outer bearing and race need to be replaced. Can ad part numbers when uploading pics
A 10mm spacer was required to be machined for stub axle to get front track within the 10mm f350 front track requirements of engineer.
The caliper bracket - many versions were made - ended up out of 12mm flat plate.
Braking components need to be from one vehicle so that justification for the modification and performance expectation is a simple and proven one at inspection time.
The hydroboost setup from the f350 was used and mounted underneath the dash to keep the firewall and engine bay looking clean.
What a job that was, required the pedal setup from an isuzu npr truck that pushes on right angle of booster from pedal direction ( pictures to come)
The steering has been upgraded to power steering using the toyota hilux steering box, mounts made from 1 inch plate - used a 4 inch drop drag link from the toyota pitman arm. I thought that this prevented bump steer but the engineer told me that it just reduces the chances or your rod ends binding.
Current job that is taking too much time is the front firewall insert, the shaping process has been a big learning curve and much respect for these craftsmen has developed. It is nearly complete and ready for final welding into place just finishing making the bottom corners before welding in as one piece.
A fair amount of work has commenced with the engine upgrades, but I will leave that for a later post. (if i am allowed back :))
I like the idea of having requirements for sound engineering practices on vehicles that operate on public roads. While the people I used to race dirt track cars with were all there voluntarily and understood the risks involved, some of the rugged individualists here in the USA who insist on "doing it my way" haven't bothered to ask the soccer mom in her minivan full of kids if she minds being on the same road with something that goes like stink but can't stop or steer safely! On the other side of the coin, resisting the tendency of an all-powerful government to meddle in our daily lives is a big reason the USA exists at all. Good luck on your project, and keep us updated! It looks very good so far! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Hy 1958Viking, you do very good work, it looks great! It is a better idea to have it inspected and approved as you go, most jurisdictions over here will only inspect the finished product, it can be very disheartening when they tell you you have to redo a major part of your modifications. I hope the remainder of your project goes well. How long of a bed are you planning to have and what will you use the truck for?
thanks for the feedback, always helps to keep work ticking along. The modified fire wall has been welded in , still needs finishing to the welds with planishing hammer and dolly and final sand/grind. Working on making some alligator back welds today to get the turbo in the position required. (would love to ad some pics of these - any suggestions for upload or is it a moderator request?) Yes, it can be a real pain to meet so many requirements but I do like the reassurance that it should be safe when family and friends are riding in it. It does help getting several visits from engineer as work progresses, the underdash Hydroboost and brake pedal placement required extra firewall bracing to prevent any firewall flex. It was much easier to amend the mods before truck is fully assembled and I would need to pull apart, weld and refinish for a second time.
Spoke with a mate today re ideas for tray - width of cab to rear wheels before slimming to chassis width and tubs over duallys. Hope to use for pure enjoyment
The firewall modification to accept where the 6BT will sit has been welded in finally. I say finally because it has taking months, between inexperience and procrastination because i did not know what to do next or how to go about it. Need to planish the welds and clean up, was going to paint firewall in POR15, has anyone done this before did the paint stick there? - it is the chassis paint one i have The firewall modification also allows for the hydroboost underdash brake set up be removed and accepts the clutch pedal set up (photos will come as i get that installed) - it is all pretty tight up in there Been also welding up my turbo manifold/ relocation mount, it is coming along nicely I think, (will get more photos of it once completed ) again never done this before so it is a nice but steep learning curve - should have done this week if the rain stops My Pins and bushes for the rear springs showed up yesterday, they are both very nice looking quality and looking forward to installing them once i replace the rear hangers that have elongated holes due to being flogged out.
Had a fella answer my parts wanted ad , looking for front axle bearings and he has a 56 3600 that he is replacing front and rear suspension on so going to go and have a look if axles are similar and look at condition of front hangers if they may come in handy as spares
Thanks Mike B for the insight on uploading pics , it is all easy once you know how
I love this build! Great job so far. I have a couple of questions and suggestions. With the Ford braking system be sure that you upgrade or at least use new rubber for anything that is brake related. Those lines may look good on the outside but wear out on the inside and the bad rubber can act as a check valve and not allow the brake fluid to return and keeping the brake locked... I've been there and played that game.
I see that it's a P-pumped Cummins... I'm glad it's not a VE. I assume you've taken care of the dowel pin already correct? What exhaust manifold are you using? A 2nd gen is what I'm assuming but if it isn't then a second gen manifold would put the turbo in the center of the 3/4 exhaust ports vs between the 4/5 ports. It's hard to tell in the small pictures but kinda looks like you have a 3rd gen manifold flipped upside down. Nice work on cutting and piecing the pipe for relocating the turbo too.
I don't know much about these old trucks, I just bought my first one but I do know my diesels so if I can help feel free to ask.
cheers, its like you read my mind, just ordered the new brake lines from rock auto, they are to suit the f350 but will test and see if they are suitable lengths - if not i will have samples of the ends i need to make custom length lines.
Yes 215hp p pump, dowel pin has been done along with beehive springs and upgraded push rods, waiting to upgrade fuel mods after she has had all checks from engineer for registration
The exhaust manifold is a second gen with the square ports but you are correct it is the same as the 3rd gen layout flipped. needed that extra bit of space for firewall/ exhaust clearance.
Thanks for the offer on diesel advice i will know where to go if i get stuck
Cut the rivets from old spring hangers, ready for clean up and bolting to chassis so i can fit new shackles and pins - slowly slowly it is coming together.
Wow, that is one hell of an engine cradle you built, fine work. Great project, keep the reports coming. Also, noticed your caster shim wedges are missing (under your spring pack and above your straight axle).
Last edited by sstock; 03/04/20193:15 PM.
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
I got a 1969 big fender C60 with a 427 and 5 speed. I have very similar plans for drive train down the road on my truck as you're doing on yours. Fortunately for me though I have air brakes so I don't see a need to do anymore then go threw the system and make sure it all checks out. I will be installing 4:88 high gears to get my rpms down and top speed up and an added bonus it should make it perfect for a low reving cummins at the same time.
Yeah have not shimmed the front axle yet, the front springs have been raised (will add pic soon) and re bushed, new pins too.
Plan was to get front axle in with new springs and rear spring suspension restored with new pins, bushes and spring pack modified for desired ride height - then with ride heights set front and rear adjust pinion angle for rear and weld in mounts ( they are meaty solid steel ) also ensure that it is square with front axle
Then once that is done and closer to drive ready get the front axle shimmed and wheel aligned - hope that i am going the right way about setting this up - if you have done it and can provide any insight it would be appreciated
Stainless braided lines are a nice bump up from the factory Ford rubber lines. Even if the news ones you bought work, perfect, I would put it on the back burner down the road once it passes inspection and you don't have bigger things to think about.
Brake lines getting run from underdash hydroboost mount and through firewall and also got the tailshaft length modified and fitted - getting there with some time to get lots done in the next 2 weeks
Realized that it has been so long and some of the other parts of the build have been looked over.
The exhaust has been mocked up, wanted it running out/ through inner fenders similar to an old gasser look, a few more mods to incorporate some flex for movement and it will be ready to fully weld up.
THe front spring height has finally been decided, Engineer stated that blocks need to be welded to raise height or spring leaves that increase in length to replicate spring pack would be required. I went with adding a few extra leaves (1/2 flat bar at bottom of spring pack )to get the height i wanted at the front.
Rear diff mounts got welded (tacked ) in , with tailshaft back able to set pinion angle - just need to be sure of axle alignment before i fully weld, putting alot of heat into these welds and do not want to take out again. put threads into these for mounting guards that will closely follow edge of tyre.
Made front brake caliper hose mounts that mount under rubber bump stops, they were sourced from a toyota landcruiser - had to elongate the mount holes by 5mm but they look like they should be there.
Made up some battery boxes that mount on this inside of chassis, just need to run the rear hard brake line before fitting in second battery box.
Made some nice powersteering through chassis hose mounts that make the pressure hoses run really neatly too (will gets some pics later)
The tank is from a Caribou aircraft oil tank, it had a sump and just had tig welded with AN fitting, this will gravity feed lift pump when mounted on tray behind the cab
