The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Has anyone upgraded their steering linkage? Looking for better Steering.

Has anyone upgraded their steering linkage? I would like to replace the tie rod ends on my 50 truck with newer style parts . My steering box works fine. I just want to improve the steering, if possible, and replace the original style parts with improvements.

I replaced my worn tie-rod ends with original-style complete-assemblies.

They are not inexpensive, but they are adjustable (with replaceable parts) - when adjusted properly, they work as well as newer-style non-adjustable tie rod ends.

My steering (front-end "feel", and steering "response", and stability) is excellent (after properly adjusting the steering box).
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/54ctsm0903.html

Maybe someone can explain how the non-adjustable style would be an improvement?
Except, maybe, you do not (cannot) adjust them (and, except for cost)?

The only "improvement" involved in using the non-adjustable tie rod ends is the fact they're less expensive to manufacture. If the ball pivots are changed along with rebuilding the internal parts of the originals, you'll probably have as good a steering system as is available. If you're using oddball too-wide wheels there might be a little advantage to going with the later style rod ends, but there's a lot of work involved in the conversion, particularly where drilling and pressing the old ball pivots out of the steering arms is concerned. Then the steering arms must be taper reamed to accept the tie rod studs.
Jerry

Thank you for the assessment and for this clear and important statement, Jerry.

" . . but there's a lot of work involved in the conversion, particularly where drilling and pressing the old ball pivots out of the steering arms is concerned. Then the steering arms must be taper reamed to accept the tie rod studs."

I have found that a lot of steering problems can be traced to the king pins.

I agree. I have to do a king pin job on mine soon. I thought they were good but jacked it up only to find out they had some play in them. Live and learn I think that
they will take care of my problem. Good luck!

There is no way that I will ever drill out perfectly good ball ends, and taper ream the spindle holes to accept the new style tie rod ends. Too scary for me.
There is no reason to do so anyway. The originals, properly adjusted and maintained are as good as, or better than the modern replacements in my opinion.

Or you can just buy the sealed tie-rod ends with the straight shank that drop in where the ball socket was. You still need to drill out the ball shaft and possibly press them out, but no taper reamer is required.

Joe

I'm with Joe h. The replacement ends are straight shank like the ball studs. I have replaced many without reaming the hole. Its doughtful there are many of those ball studs left that are still round.
George

How close is the fit on those straight shank tie rod ends? There's a good reason most modern steering components like ball joints and tie rod ends fit into a tapered hole - - - - -no slack whatsoever for tens of thousands of miles.
Jerry

If you look at the end of the original ball studs in the spindle, you will see where they were power peened to keep them in place. I would guess that the originals were a press fit and the power peening was insurance that they stayed in place.
So now we are hoping that the new style replacement ends are made to be a press fit in the old spindle hole. We also now have to replicate the power peening which was done 60-something years ago by GM.
I hope that I never have to do this.
BTW, I have 3 ADs and all six original tie rod balls are still round (6 drag link ball ends as well). Maybe three different great grandpas kept each of them greased and I am a lucky dog for it.
Carl

No slack in mine (old ones, and replacement ones): however, they do not get very many miles each year; and, they get checked/tightened/adjusted each year.

The new replacement joints have a lock washer & nut on the end. They aren't going anywhere.

Plus the newer ones have a shoulder on top and the washer and lock nut on the bottom to lock them in place. Mine have been for 10 years with no issues, I use them for tie-rod and drag link ends. The ball studs don't fit all that tight at the top, most holes are hour glass shaped so the real pinch point is at the bottom and center, just like the replacements. The replacements are just a newer version for a new truck, they just happen to fit the older ones too.

Thank you for the info on the nuts and lock washers, etc, Joe, and retired wrench bender (I'm thinking that I will refer to you as "Earl" from now on, until I find out your real name, I have my sources... )

Carl

George

Thank you, George!
I guess now I'll have to start referring to Hardshell (the OP of this thread) as "Earl" until he reminds me what his name is...
Carl

Thanks for the advice ! I'll keep what is there and work on adjusting and possibly replacing some parts.. I do have a little wear on he king pins.
JIM (Not Earl, LOL )

JIM/hardshell,

If you have noticeable wear in the kingpins (looseness?), replace the bushings (and king pins) before more parts get worn/damaged (like the axle, and/or worse: the steering/kingpin knuckles).

Hardshell,

On my '36 Chevy pickup there was about 1/2 turn of "play" in the steering wheel. It was the cumulative effect of loose king pins, loose tie rod/drag link ends and loose steering box. The tie rod ends attached to stud mounted balls in the steering arms and pitman arm. Those ball mounted studs are tapered and Moog ES29R and ES29L are one piece tie rod ends with the exact same taper as the clunky original parts. The match is so good that even the judges at the 1976 VCCA National Meet in Colorado Springs did not notice them or the home made drag link that I made to go with the more modern tie rod ends.

The loose king pin problem was corrected with oversize king pins with the axle hole and steering arm bushings reamed to fit with an adjustable reamer.

The steering box problem was corrected new worm and sector gears, new pitman shaft bushings and machining the pitman housing for an oil seal so that gear lube can be used in the steering box instead of grease. The result was much improved steering although it's nothing like the electric power steering in my wife's 2017 Chevy Tahoe. That is some sweet steering although that Tahoe has some other problems including a factory defect in the trans oil cooler that we are fighting out (apparently successfully) with GM and the dealer.