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| | | Forums66 Topics128,106 Posts1,056,213 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 108 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 108 | The task today was to grease my '58 chassis points as defined in the 'Chevrolet Truck Manual' and owners manual. I ran out of grease before starting and since I needed to buy some, I thought 'what is the best type and brand of grease to use as chassis grease'? The manuals do not give a specification for this grease. Probably what I have been using has been ok since nothing has failed. Am wondering what others use and suggest to use for chassis lube. I have installed a LockNLube grease coupler ( https://locknlube.com/) on my grease gun, this makes greasing a whole lot easier | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,801 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,801 | Just about any "multi-purpose" chassis grease should be sufficient to lube stuff like tie rods, king pins, spring shackles, etc. Just don't use the same stuff for wheel bearings- - - -it's not temperature rated to be used around brakes. If a grease fitting isn't clogged up with solidified grease from decades of not getting lubed, that lock-on tip shouldn't be necessary. If you force a bunch of old grease and the road dirt that's mixed with it into the parts that need to be lubed, are you really doing yourself any favors? Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 108 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 108 | Jerry, I always wipe the zerks off before pairing the lockNlube to them, not so much to force the grease in, but keeping the gun end paired to the zerk sometimes is an issue with a long-handled gun (not pistol-grip) that takes 2 hands to operate. Everything underneath on this truck is pretty clean and new, to my advantage. This grease looks to be better for heavy duty and high temp applications. https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/heavy-duty/cerulean-grease | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,801 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,801 | Back when I was teaching auto mechanics, we had a fairly long series of lessons on lubricants in general, and grease in particular. All "grease" is made up of at least two components, plain old lubricating oil, either mineral based or synthetic, and "soap" which gives it enough stiffness to stay put. Some soaps aren't compatible with others, something that can pose a problem with wheel bearings in particular. Since it's not practical to clean all the old grease out of things like tie rods, ball joints, etc. there might be a situation where radically different base greases might not play well together. Other than that, if it's good and slippery and stays put without leaking out, no problem! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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