The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 55-59 sector shaft

I pulled the steering box off my 41 3/4 ton to rebuild it, only to find that it's a TF box. And someone forced the incorrect size nut onto the sector shaft when they put the pitman arm on, so the threads are all messed up. I was thinking I could cut the bad threads off and try to salvage the shaft, but don't really know what to do. Suggestions appreciated.

I would try a thread file and see if you can fix whats left. I would bet the end is mushroomed out from beating on trying to get the pitman arm off at some point. They then messed up the threads trying to back together. I just checked e-bay for 1955 truck pitman shaft, there is a NOS one for a reasonable price. Best to find the actual part number of what you have, http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_57chevyparts/index.htm

Agree with Joe. Hopefully there are a lot of good threads and just the first few are damaged. I can't tell by your description how much is damaged.
Anyway you can use any number of tools to rebuild big threads or cut them off if there are enough good ones to use with a thinner nut. You are not in big trouble. It's plenty fixable. Determine size of threads. Need to find a nut.

To rebuild threads, assuming you don't have a die that big, use a hack saw blade, files, chisels.... (maybe a Dremel) to reshape the threads. Big threads can be done with those kinds of tools. You don't need the first few threads to be good, they just need to accept the nut. They are not part of the torque strength. The most important thing to remember is that it will take time, patients and good lighting. Slowly but surely you will get it done. You really have nothing to lose if you can't make it work. A new rethreading die is only $10. Guessing 3/4-10. (Home Depot). You don't need a good one. You won't use the die until all work is done with tools to reshape threads gently....or cut a few off and rechamfer the end. As I said, I don't have a good feel, or pic, for exactly the extent of damage.

A donor gear box can be $0-$100 and that shaft is all you need from it.

Of course, a machinist can fix anything.

Send it to me- - - -I can probably straighten up the thread pretty quickly by dial indicating the shaft in a 4-jaw lathe chuck and working over the damaged threads without damaging the ones further back.
Jerry

That is a 1937-40 truck shaft.
Available on ebay.
Although changing over to a 1941-46 box would give you much better steering.

I don't know why I'm having so much trouble figuring out what I'm working with. The box has always had so much play in it and the time has come for a rebuild (so I can get the truck on the road---safely). Having never rebuilt a steering box before, I did my homework before beginning, and read all about the recirculating balls, etc. Then I tear it down and there's no recirculating balls. The box was full of grease, and I'm not sure what type; it could be corn head grease, but don't know.
It's a Saginaw Gear 12 263587, but I cannot determine what year(s) they were used. The mounting bolts go through the top of the frame, not the side.
Dave, I saw that listing on ebay too, but wasn't sure if it was a direct replacement for the one I have (no dimensions listed). I'm reluctant to start messing around with the threads without knowing my options if I really mess it up (which I probably would).
As you can see in this pic, the bad threads go down about 1/4".
Jerry, if you're willing to take this on, let me know and I'll send it to you. (I have your address.)
Thanks for all you help guys.

I assure you that you have a 1937-40 truck box.
That box is not a reciprocating ball style.
The reciprocating ball style started in 1941.
If you want to use that box the adjustment procedure is completely different.

I personally would find a 1941-46 box, as the reciprocating ball style box is a much improved design. It is almost like putting power steering on your truck with the improved design.

Thanks Dave.
My truck does have front and rear axles from a 55-59 3/4 ton truck (PO). If I did use a 41-46 box, what would I need to modify to get it to work?
I looked at the box on my 59 1 ton yesterday thinking maybe I could use it, but it's mounts differently and the frame is "curved" where it mounts - unlike the frame on the 41.
I'm ok with modifying the 41 to whatever box works better. Just would like to know what I'm getting into so I don't get over my head.

Is there a difference between a 1 1/2 ton and a 3/4 ton gearbox? I may have one for a '41 big bolt.

John

It depends on the gear box, or, maybe on which 3/4 ton model?

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/4158.htm

11/2 and 3/4 ton use the same box. The larger trucks have a longer steering shaft, do to the taller frame.
I have shortened many of the longer shafts to put them in 1/2 tons, but don't try that unless you are very confident in your welding skills.

There should be no problem installing the 1941-46 box in place of the 1937-40 box.
The only thing I can think of would be if you have a 1937 box. That was the last year for a keyed shaft for the steering wheel. If that is the case your steering wheel will not fit the later shaft.(1938 started the spline shaft for the steering wheel).

It's a splined shaft. Sector shaft is 1-1/8" diameter, so guess I will be able to use the existing pitman arm.
Thanks for all your help everyone. I'll be looking for a 41-46 1/2-3/4 ton box.

I believe I can straighten up that thread, so send it over if you want to. Even if you find another steering gear, that one could serve as a backup if you can get a new nut installed. Worst case scenario, I can turn the shaft down to the next smaller size and rethread it for a slightly smaller nut.
Jerry

OK Jerry. Since I will be "upgrading" to a reciprocating ball type box, I will not need this one. But I'm all for getting it ready for the next use. No hurry to return it. You can even bring it to Homecoming if you wish.
Thanks

Just a FYI,
If you have a choice, I would choose a 1942-46 box.
Not that there is anything wrong with a 41 box, it is just a one year only.
It fits and looks the same, it just uses 1/4" reciprocating balls, instead of 5/16" that started in 1942 and was used from then on.
This is to say that parts for the 41 box would be harder to get, if the need arises.