So I tried the CLR cleaning method today I read about several times and I am pretty content with the results.
I only did the left side of the truck to really be able to see the difference.
Note: that I don't have power or water at my shed so the light isn't great and I didn't have a chance to thou roughly rinse the truck off before and after.
Now that you've cleaned the paint with CLR, wax it with Johnson's paste wax. It's made for wood furniture, but works great on old rusty trucks. I wax mine with it twice a year, rubber and all. It's more waterproof than regular car wax and doesn't change the look of raw rust. It's protected my truck during garage-less daily driving during salty Iowa winters.
Now that you've cleaned the paint with CLR, wax it with Johnson's paste wax. It's made for wood furniture, but works great on old rusty trucks. I wax mine with it twice a year, rubber and all. It's more waterproof than regular car wax and doesn't change the look of raw rust. It's protected my truck during garage-less daily driving during salty Iowa winters.
Thanks for the tip! Was just looking at different waxes today.
Most automotive waxes turn white and chalky looking on rust, cracked/scratched paint, and rubber. I tried lots of different brands and types of wax with poor results before talking to a guy in the U.K. that used furniture paste wax. Amber paste wax looks best. I don't rub or buff it, I just smear it on nice and thick. It levels out and becomes essentially invisible in a couple days. Even months after application I can buff the wax to a low gloss in a few minutes with a shop towel.
