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Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 111
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 111
I am trying to remove the flywheel on a 216 motor I have but it will not turn.

Is there any way to remove it without being able to rotate the motor? Seems to be a near impossible task.

Thanks,


1951 3100 5-window
with a '55 235/floor mounted 3-speed
Some of the story in ODSS
Most of it in The Shops Area wink
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,234
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,234
Paul,

We need more information. Is engine in the truck or out? Any other pertaining information that might help.

I assume engine is in the truck and you can’t get to flywheel bolts due to bell housing.

Chris

Last edited by ndkid275; 12/12/2018 2:35 PM.
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
I did that on a 270 GMC (same back end) that was siezed, get your 1/2" drive socket set U-joint, reach in through the retainer hole.

It does work.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,832
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,832
Is the clutch cover still bolted onto the flywheel? The tricky part is removing the clutch, but with the sheet metal inspection cover removed near the top of the bellhousing, it's usually possible to reach all six pressure plate bolts with some creative use of extensions and universal sockets. Once the clutch and pressure plate is removed, the flywheel bolts can be reached with a breaker bar and a socket from the bottom inspection hole. If the engine is in the vehicle, getting to that upper inspection plate can be tricky!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 111
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 111
Thanks guys, you are right...I should have said the clutch plate. That is what I am really fighting with.

I think the flywheel is probably a lot easier, via the input shaft hole.

I will head out there this morning and try again. Failing that I will pull the head and try to get the thing to rotate.

Thanks again.


1951 3100 5-window
with a '55 235/floor mounted 3-speed
Some of the story in ODSS
Most of it in The Shops Area wink
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 111
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 111
OK, so success. first of all let me clarify, the motor was out of the truck and sitting on the floor. I had removed the trans but the motor was frozen and hence the issue in not being able to rotate and access the clutch retaining bolts.

I ended up removing the head and exposing the underside to release the rods from the crank so it would turn. A pain but I finally for the assembly to turn and was able to remove the clutch and flywheel. Sorry for not being clearer on the issue in my original post.

I was simply stripping the motor down so I could list the parts. It seemed a shame to junk the whole thing so I salvaged the flywheel, gen, distributor, head, crank and more. The block itself is toast and will head off for recycling on Monday.

Thanks again for the input.

Paul


1951 3100 5-window
with a '55 235/floor mounted 3-speed
Some of the story in ODSS
Most of it in The Shops Area wink

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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