Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,064 Posts1,055,860 Members48,428 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 89 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 89 | What kind of epoxy works best? Mine (1947 3600) has a couple cracks I need to take care of. Also, what paint - or does it matter? Thanks! | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 | Have you looked using the search function at the top of this thread? This was discussed less than 6 months ago. Stovebolt Search can be your best friend. 
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Epoxy is Epoxy. Some are more stiff and easier to "mold". JB, PC7, Por 15, 3M..... Two part Epoxy. There are other products people have used. Body fillers. They are plastic/resin based. Like Bondo. Not as strong as Epoxy. Sometimes on a steering wheel, you don't need strong, just "filler" that won't crack over time. Time will tell which is best for you and your climate. I think Epoxy is the best choice after doing all the work it takes to make a wheel look good.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,047 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,047 | I think that discussion that Martin was referring to included refinishing the wheel with bedliner material. It can be applied either smooth finish or textured, and unlike epoxy, is somewhat flexible so the old cracks don't telegraph back through the finish.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2015 Posts: 338 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2015 Posts: 338 | What kind of epoxy works best? Mine (1947 3600) has a couple cracks I need to take care of. Also, what paint - or does it matter? Thanks! Paint doesn't matter but I would suggest a urethane as it will resist wear better than an alkyd or enamel. Click this link for my build thread and it will take you to Page 7 where I describe and demonstrate fixing a steering wheel. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1128589/7.html | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 89 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 89 | Thanks for the info guys! I DID try the search, but it did not bring up anything on SB - just Google results. I've redone steering wheels before, but it has been a few years. I wasn't sure if this particular wheel is plastic or rubber, so I wanted to know which epoxy people are using. I have even used JB on a couple of tractor steering wheels, but wasn't sure about using it on this wheel. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 | Dachshund, don’t use the search engine at the very top of the page. Use the Search in the line just above the thread header. The one at the very top is a Google Search. The one just above the thread header is a Stovebolt search.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 A teacher, but always an apprentice. | | A teacher, but always an apprentice. Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 | I used a 3M 2 part epoxy on my wheel. Unfortunately, it was too tough. I have very fine hairline cracks that are visible if you look closely. It looked really good (still does, but it’s not perfect), but I will try something more pliable next time. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 1,101 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 1,101 | I went through several of the previous threads on this topic and three products seem to stand out as the clear favorite.
The feedback appears to be around workability and if the product might be too hard causing it to not flex and eventually cracking or popping out (the liquid 2 part Epoxy, see Fox's post above).
POR 15 Epoxy Putty $33.54 plus shipping on the POR 15 site. JB Weld - Less $5 at Walmart. Appears to be a favorite choice probably because of price and proven history Eastwood repair kit (PC-7 Epoxy, Adhesion Promoter, PRE Painting Prep) $52.99 on Eastwood site. Just to buy the PC-7 Epoxy is less than $10.
I think I am going to give the cheap JB Weld a try for mine. Work time does not rush you. Sandable, Paintable.
Last edited by dgrinnan; 12/12/2018 2:23 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2018 Posts: 122 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2018 Posts: 122 | I used the PC-7 Epoxy (not from Eastwood Kit) on my '51 steering wheel and was happy with the results. It was easy to apply, sanded well, and only required a second application on a few small pin hole areas. I followed up with high build primer, wet sanded, then applied enamel topcoat and clear coats. I was very happy with the results.
Charlie
'51 3100 5-Window (Restomod in progress)
| | |
| |