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#128955 09/30/2004 5:35 PM
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Got some bad news about my 49 PU's suspension. Seems the guy I bought it from didn't do a very good job of "upgrading" the ride and did more harm then good. My trusted suspension guy said the guy had the right idea but didn't excute it very well.(He used a Mus. II weld on kit of some sort and a late model ? four link in the rear) It was suggested I get a late model F body front clip and consider going back to a leaf spring rear with bag assist and that would smooth many a rough road problems down the line. It was also suggested I find a later model rolling frame, either A or F body between 72 and 85 with the same wheel base and tranfer everything over. This is supposed to be a reliable daily driver. Any idea's which way to go? All suggestions are greatly apprecaited - I'm new to rodding so it's a learn as I go!


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There is another option. RB's sells a complete replacement frame with suspension for under $8,000.

I am a proponent of the clip approach because most the people who claim the Mustang II is better base the argument on cost, which favors the clip if you do it yourself, and on problems with poorly executed clips. I've always said poor craftsmanship will hurt either. Your story proves it.

The F body cars are a little wide for this application. G body cars like a '78 to 80-something Monte Carlo are better track-width wise.

As for transferring to a later frame: F body does not have a frame. Its a unit body with a front subframe. Most modern cars that do have a frame use a perimeter type frame which is too wide for your truck under the doors and running boards.

A S-10 frame does fit, and one model is very close wheelbase wise, and easy (relatively) to adjust.

I apologize if I'm criticizing your uncle or your best friend, but I'm worried about the judgement of the person giving you advice based on the frame swap suggestions he made. If that is what he suggested you might want to have the whole truck looked at by someone else. I say this because his suggested frame swaps are not workable, and so I doubt he knows what he is talking about. Sorry...


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
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OldSub,

Hate to ask a dumb question, but what cars were F-bodies. Like the rear-wrecked '73 Nova I've got, front-end is o.k., or what were they?
Thanks,

harry

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f-body is a camaro / trans am


2003 ford lightning
1959 chevy 36
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Quote
Originally posted by 1-ton of fun:
f-body is a camaro / trans am
And the A-body is a Chevelle or early Monte Carlo or similar.

These letter names are not perfect because GM has used some codes for more than one platform and some models have been built on more than one platform.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
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I used a G body clip/sub frame on my 54. A bit of a challenge getting everything right.

Why is the MII you have not good? If it is in the wrong place you can cut the welds and reset it. If it is not the location then you can always buy better control arms/spindles, steering rack, etc to make it work. Cutting it out and going with a subframe seems a bit severe.

As for the 4 link rear. What is wrong? To rough for you? A 4 link should have coil over shocks on it. You can either get softer springs for them or completely replace them with softer units.

Can you be more specific in what the actual problems are with the existing systems? Right now I would have to question the logic of the person telling you to change.

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Quote
Originally posted by Houston54:

..........Can you be more specific in what the actual problems are with the existing systems? Right now I would have to question the logic of the person telling you to change.
Houston -

Riding too rough would have been a step up for this truck. I willing to bet that the original suspension would have riden better then it's current setup. BUT, I knew this going in so it's not a huge surprise. I just didn't think it wasn't going to turn into such a big project to correct, but thats the way it goes sometimes...

Just so you understand, I wasn't exactly sure what problems I may have had, and I really thought the guy (according to him) used top notch parts for this truck, which is why I took the truck to people who were a bit more "in the know" on this sorta thing. And just to be sure, I took it to a three seperate suspension guys without the other knowing what other may have said, and they all came to the same conclusion that the install was pretty messed up but that it could be fix or better yet to just replace what was done. What was done was that the guy before me used some sort of weld on MUS II kit (I believe he said it was a Michael Thomas kit - whoever that is) but, used a lot of homemade parts to make up mounts and supports for the airbag setup and in the process altered to what he felt would work best for a cross member, sway bar hookups, etc. This is not to say it couldn't be cut and re-welded into proper position and then replace what parts would be needed, it was just recomended that because he had used sub-standard parts, and with the use of the homemade stuff and such, that I would end having to re-place just about everything anyways. (now, this is three guys saying this, not just one) Recomendations for repair did vary as to how it should be done and what kits or front clips could be used, not to mention repair/replacement of the four link setup on the rear.

Because this is a keeper and a daily driver, and the fact I'm getting too old to bounce around like this, I'm leaning towards sub-framing the whole truck or better yet, just ordering a rolling chassie and transfer everything over and be done with it! I really do like this truck and want to make a dependable, everyday driver that doesn't beat ya to death everytime you take it out. This is why I'm asking for other opinions as to a best plan of attack. I kinda figured most of you guys and have been there, done that and could steer a newbie in the right directions.

Thanks for all yours answers so far! It's much appreciated!

By the way, what is RB's?


Old trucks, old bikes, aged whiskey and classy women.. It don't get much better then that!
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Thanks for the additional information. Most of the MII kits are pretty well thought out and, while I am sure the installation can get screwed up, install pretty easily. Sounds like the PO did not even have a shade tree to work under if he messed things up that badly. Could you send me a pic or two via email of the current set up? This is an area I have become fairly understanding of through my own trials.

Sub-framing may be the least costly to perform if you are doing the work yourself. If you are having a shop do it it will probably wind up being close to a new MII set up. Before you do the sub-frame, become as familar as you can with the process. Check out the Bobcoauto.com site. It shows how the f-body sub-frame is mounted to an F100. The process is very close to the chevy install. This link also shows the process although for a car. Process is the same. http://www.hotrod.com/howto/42838/

RBs is http://www.rbsauto.com/

As for the rear suspension you might consider a spring set from http://www.classicperform.com/ or
chassis engineering.

Good luck.


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