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| | | | Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 565 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 565 | What is the safest way to support the frame while removing the rear axle? I hope to disconnect all brake lines, etc and remove u-bolts from springs. My concern is how high I will need to get it to take all weight off of the axle.
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks
"Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either. Just leave me alone, you're starting to freak me out."
1957 GMC 150
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,441 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,441 | I vote for heavy duty jack stands.ðŸ›
Martin
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| | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,841 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,841 | What's wrong with balsa wood blocks? Just kiddin' Yes for jack stands.
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,442 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,442 | Heavy duty jack stands with pins (rather than the type with teeth). Or a properly built wood block stand.
Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,821 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,821 |
When I'm working on really heavy stuff like my tractor or any kind of tracked vehicle, I use crisscrossed layers of timber similar to railroad ties for support. They give a bigger footprint and better weight distribution than stands. a stovebolt sized truck should be plenty safe with jack stands, but the wider the base and the heavier the weight rating, the better.
Jerry
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| | | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,442 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,442 | Exactly what HRL said. Especially if you are yanking stuff around under there.
Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Of course, block front wheels and remove driveshaft.
Remove brake lines and ebrake cables. Jack up the rear by placing jack on the differential housing. Lift until tires clear floor. Place frame on jack stands. Take off rear tires. Lower diff near floor until any spring tension is gone. Undo Ubolts almost all the way, let diff down more till ubolts are wiggle free, unbolt them completely and roll diff away. Undo ubolts in steps and let diff down a little at a time to gauge spring looseness until ubolts are free.
Don't be under the diff. Do everything slowly and be sure it makes sense. This is a general procedure you can modify anywhere you wish.
(A transmission jack would be nice to have).
Don't know the plan but if you need to move the diff around the shop or yard, put the tires back on.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 565 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 565 |
"Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either. Just leave me alone, you're starting to freak me out."
1957 GMC 150
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