I replaced my carburetor due to having bad fuel fumes coming from the truck. I had a hard time getting the fuel line back in the fuel inlet so I removed the inlet and used the original one thinking the thread pattern was slightly different. While looking into it I noticed that it didn't have an internal gasket where the filter goes. Only the outer gasket at the threads. I've watched several rebuild videos that showed replacing 4hst gasket. Nether the old or the new carb had this gasket, so I thought maybe it wasn't needed. I was finally able to get the fuel line in. I figured out the trouble was the angle.that the steel line approached the carb was off, making it next to impossible about to connect to the treads. I removed the carb again and installed the fuel line at the correct angle and was able to get the carb back and installed on the instake. When the truck started gas was pouring out of the inlet. Either the internal gasket really is needed or I damaged the like and the flange at the inlet.
Does anyone know if that internal gasket is required as it wasn't in either carb?
Also, I want to replace the line from the pump to the carb, as that angle bothers me. What is the best material? I've read rubber is bad, causes fuel vapor, which is why I stared this adventure. I read steal braided fuel lines are a bad idea. The only safe options would be mold a new steel line, and recreate the flange, or a nylon line which seems more user friendly. I'm pretty new to this, learning as I go. Any advice?
1963 C10 Fleetside Long Bed; 230; 3 speed; gun rack.
My guess is you don't have the line properly seated in the carb or the filter. As far as your existing fuel line, first see if you can bend it into what you think is a good angle. This line should be shaped so you have a straight alignment into your carb inlet. This will make it easier to screw into the carb inlet.
As far as the fuel line material, the original equipment steel line is just fine. You can probably buy a new one already bent to original if you really think you need to replace it.
Nobody can offer a lot more advice until we know what vehicle and engine you have.
The gasket inside is not necessary as far as leaking. It seals the filter to the fitting. It will work ok without it as it would take a pretty small particle to seep through there. You must have the fare fitting cross threaded in the carb inlet fitting. Remove the line & make sure the fitting in the carb is snug & not stripped.. Like Mike says bend the tube so it points straight at the fitting. When you are tightening the flare fitting use a backup wrench to hold the carb fitting. You can buy ready made fuel lines or you can make one up with steal brake tubing. This new alloy tubing they have out know is easy to work with. It you have damaged the carb fitting let me know. I think I have some available I can send you one. George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
Cut the line a few inches back from the carburetor and install an inline filter. That way you'll have plenty of length. Just don't waste your money on one of those clear plastic ones- - - -use a real filter. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Hi Matt, First of all, anyone tossing up scare talk about rubber fuel line isn't using it for a 1963 truck with a 230 six. In that application the only way you can get fuel fumes is if you do a bad job and have fuel spraying or leaking/dripping from some connection or if your carburetor is leaking gas. The people complaining about rubber line are people who (a) know nothing about fuel injection systems and (b) are trying to use this low pressure line for an application for which it is dangerously unfit...in fact it is stamped all over that line "not for use in fuel injection systems---50 psi max." If you put this in a high pressure fuel injection application, it will fail (and leak) every single time. It may take a couple of weeks, but you will have fumes. You'll have fumes just before the whole car ignites. Please...don't spend even 5 seconds worrying about rubber/nitrile fuel line with your truck. If you want to use it, go right ahead but just be certain to buy Gates (made in the USA) line.
In the 70s I had one of these Rochesters which had been buggered up so badly by a prior owner I had to use epoxy (JB Weld) to permanently mount a piece of copper tubing where it goes in the carb to finally make it stop leaking. I still have that carburetor, and after over 40 years it doesn't leak. Originally this was a flared fitting. Heaven knows what has been done since then, however. Studying 10 carburetors this summer / early fall, I saw some things that defied common sense.
This summer I posted a lot about the Rochester carbs. Unless they've been straightened it is highly likely they are going to leak. I know rebuilding shops (and other people) think the answer is to just use 2 gaskets between the air horn and float bowl, but I do not believe that is a good plan. Look at one which would nearly cause the engine to die every time it went around a corner (attached). One of the 2 gaskets they used had shrunk and deformed and any time gas sloshed up there it poured right into the throat. These are notorious for leaking around the outer seam where the air horn meets the float bowl. Good luck!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Hi Matt, First of all, anyone tossing up scare talk about rubber fuel line isn't using it for a 1963 truck with a 230 six. In that application the only way you can get fuel fumes is if you do a bad job and have fuel spraying or leaking/dripping from some connection or if your carburetor is leaking gas. The people complaining about rubber line are people who (a) know nothing about fuel injection systems and (b) are trying to use this low pressure line for an application for which it is dangerously unfit...in fact it is stamped all over that line "not for use in fuel injection systems---50 psi max." If you put this in a high pressure fuel injection application, it will fail (and leak) every single time. It may take a couple of weeks, but you will have fumes. You'll have fumes just before the whole car ignites. Please...don't spend even 5 seconds worrying about rubber/nitrile fuel line with your truck. If you want to use it, go right ahead but just be certain to buy Gates (made in the USA) line.
In the 70s I had one of these Rochesters which had been buggered up so badly by a prior owner I had to use epoxy (JB Weld) to permanently mount a piece of copper tubing where it goes in the carb to finally make it stop leaking. I still have that carburetor, and after over 40 years it doesn't leak. Originally this was a flared fitting. Heaven knows what has been done since then, however. Studying 10 carburetors this summer / early fall, I saw some things that defied common sense.
This summer I posted a lot about the Rochester carbs. Unless they've been straightened it is highly likely they are going to leak. I know rebuilding shops (and other people) think the answer is to just use 2 gaskets between the air horn and float bowl, but I do not believe that is a good plan. Look at one which would nearly cause the engine to die every time it went around a corner (attached). One of the 2 gaskets they used had shrunk and deformed and any time gas sloshed up there it poured right into the throat. These are notorious for leaking around the outer seam where the air horn meets the float bowl. Good luck!
1. How much pressure is coming out of the fuel pump? 2. Is there a different carb than the rebuild Rochester b that I should be
1963 C10 Fleetside Long Bed; 230; 3 speed; gun rack.
The pressure will vary with speed and need and could be from 1 pound to around 4 or 5 pounds with a stock fuel pump, Matt. You don't need any more than that. Yes...a Carter 3211s would be a good candidate to replace your Rochester.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
