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#128822 05/27/2004 2:07 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 151
B
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
B Offline
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 151
Hi folks, I've got a '46 1/2T Panel with a Must II front end under it and the coils springs are to tall.Does anyone know about how tall they should be so I can cut them off to the right height??

Thanks


David
Just a firefighter,
Cleverly disguised as a responsible adult
'46 1/2 T Panel
#128823 05/27/2004 4:29 PM
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 179
R
Member
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R Offline
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 179
Are you SURE they are too tall:

see this thread from a while ago about IFS spring problems:

http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=000364

these are about another persons IFS install

http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=000359

http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=000371

These things are designed to break in - if you haven't given them the opportunity to do so - then by cutting them they will be too short when they finally do break in. Of course - if they currently are broken in - then my points are mute.

- Ryan


59 Apache Step
78 El Camino
http://www.wsu.edu/~rsain
#128824 05/28/2004 1:46 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 151
B
Wrench Fetcher
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B Offline
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 151
The springs are installed alright and seated in the seats the way they are supposed to be. I've got the engine, trans and Rad. in place. The springs are so tall and tight that the tip of the lower a frame is rubbing on the brake disc. Now I've been told to wait and finish putting the sheet metal on and it will fix it self, but I'm a pretty big guy, like 220lbs, when I stand on the frame ends in front I can not move the springs at all. I don't think the sheet metal will cause that much of a difference. I had a heck of a time just getting the shock nuts on.
I've been told that the springs that come with the kit are the correct ones but you still need to "tune" them. So I'm lost now. I've been rolling the truck in the shop and I don't want to damage the rotors so I need to fix this now.


David
Just a firefighter,
Cleverly disguised as a responsible adult
'46 1/2 T Panel
#128825 05/28/2004 3:22 PM
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 259
C
Member
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C Offline
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 259
If I read your description correctly it's the tip of the lower a-arm just outside of the lower ball joint that is touching the inner side of the rotor "rubbing". If your running stock Mustang II a-arms then you'll have to grind the outer edge just enough so they won't touch the rotor. Changing the spring height won't change that clearance problem.


Joe
#128826 06/02/2004 11:03 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,554
D
Shop Shark
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D Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,554
When I installed a mustang 2 frontend in my 55,it was way to high.I had a hard time trying to compress the coils.I cut one coil off and it settled down perfect. One coil at a time til you get it where you want it. Dale

#128827 06/02/2004 11:04 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,554
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,554
Oh yeah,when you cut the springs use a grinder with a cut off wheel.

#128828 06/02/2004 2:25 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 151
B
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
B Offline
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 151
Thanks guys, I talked with Eaton Spring and the rep there gave me the mesurements I should have. I tore the frontend down and they are exactly what they should be. Because the over extended springs (not being broken in) are causing damage to the ball joint boots and the lower a frame is hitting the brake rotor he told me how to replace the shock with a rod and bring the front down so it is at the correct height and break the springs in a little without being on the road. I'm going to replace the boots and make the rod and see what happens, I'll let you know.

Thanks again


David
Just a firefighter,
Cleverly disguised as a responsible adult
'46 1/2 T Panel

Moderated by  Fibonachu, KCMongo 

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