The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Must have tools for engine rebuild?

Hello,

I have been reading the excellent 261 Rebuild tech tip and I would like to thank you folks for putting that together. It will be well-used as I rebuild my 261.

I really want to do right by this old engine and was wondering what types of tools I will need to do a check of my block to determine if machining is necessary? e.g. What types of micrometer, calipers, feelers etc. will I need to accurately measure tolerances? Besides the obvious wrenches and sockets, what else might I need to pick up to get started? Anything that I can do myself I am willing and capable of doing.

Thanks.

James

Torque wrench, piston ring squeezer, Plastigauge, bore gauge, 2-4" mic, feeler gauge set, glaze breaker (if no re-bore), and optional magnetic stand dial indicator (crank end play and other), Some things like a ring expander pliers and oil priming tool are nice but not mandatory. My stiff finders and the very short stove bolts for the timing cover, pan, and side cover makes my "snap" tool that grips a slot head screw nice to have. You can make some like rubber guide hose on the rod bolts. While torn down a drilled and tapped bolt hole in the crank snout is good. I'm sure I'm missing t least one or up to a dozen but others will take up the slack.

If there is a noticeable "ring ridge" at the top of the cylinders, a ridge reamer must be used to machine it away before trying to remove the pistons. Otherwise, the top piston ring will hang up on the wear ridge and probably break a ring land on a piston, making the piston worthless. If there's a noticeable ridge at the top, the cylinders are probably worn too far to accept a re-ring job, but the ridge needs to be removed before disassembly anyway.
Jerry

OK, as (I'm sure from my comments/questions it's obvious) a relatively recent Stovebolt owner (of 5 years or so) I don't know if one needs a valve spring compressor or not. And since most folks will take the head to a shop for any freshening up needed it likely a moot point anyway.

You can take the distributor from your old 216 and remove the drive gear. You can then use the distributor to turn the oil pump in the 261, once you rebuild it.

Ridge Reamer Video


https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...6D4EF4F8C0CD50B7EBF&&FORM=VRDGAR

I was checking out some ridge reaming myself. Looks like something I can handle. So the reaming is likely necessary to safely extract the cylinders, but what about the honing? If I don't need them rebored, would you hone anyways or only if there are scratches on the cylinders? Is it possible to over-hone and take to much metal off?

Nix, I had an extra long spade drill bit that I ground flat into a paddle that I use to spin the pump. It doesn't fit as snug as the distributor but works well.

What about for getting all the crap off the head and block? I don't have a pressure washer, but was hoping to spray on a bunch of oven cleaner, let it sit, then brush it off and rinse with a hose. I am nervous to use a steel wire brush on the block and was going to use brass. Am I being too careful?

Thanks.

I use paint brush cleaner. I scrape off all the junk I can and then start using the brush cleaner. I let it soak for at least a half hour or more. Steel brushes will not hurt the block at all.

I have used a boiling tank made of a 55 gallon drum split lengthwise, filled with water and 2-3 cans of lye, plus half a box of Tide. Build a fire around the drum and have a weenie roast while the block, head, and other cast iron and sheet metal parts boil clean. Don't put any aluminum in there- - - -the lye will eat it!

Be sure to measure the cylinder taper before deciding if the block is a candidate for a re-ring job instead of a rebore. If there's over .005" of taper you're going to have a very short life ring job. In the tutorial on John's 261 there's a section on measuring taper with a used piston ring and a feeler gauge. A re-ring requires the use of a glaze breaker, which is different than a rigid hone. After any glaze breaking or honing operation use a stiff bristle brush and lots of hot soapy water followed by a rinse with clean hot water to flush all the abrasive residue out of the cylinders. I completely wore out a set of piston rings in one trip from California to Tennessee (2500 miles) after failing to get the cylinders clean enough after an in the frame ring and rod bearing job on a flathead Rambler American engine. By the end of the trip the engine was using 3 quarts of oil to a tank of gas, with no external leaks!
Jerry