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#1285967 11/03/2018 9:55 PM
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Shop Shark
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Does anyone know of a vendor that sells a brake line kit for a 1949 Chevy 3800 Cab/chassis? I'm looking to replace mine to ward off any future issues. Not sure if there is any internal rust, but don't want to gamble. And I'm not sure I want to trial and error teach myself how to bend my own lines. Thanks!

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G Offline
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If you decide to make your own use copper nickel lines, very easy to work with. If you already thought you might could make them then I’m sure you can do it with copper nickel.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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Fox Offline
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
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If you do bend and make your own lines, get a quality double flare tool. It will save you A LOT of aggravation and cursing.


1970 Chevrolet C10
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1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually
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1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's
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'Bolter
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Another vote for copper nickel. Bends and flairs easy. It will work harden but is much more forgiving than steel. Making up lines is really pretty easy. You have the originals for a pattern and it's usually possible to reuse any brake-line blocks, just be sure and get new fittings (and remember to slide em onto the new line before flaring, don't ask why I say this). Good Luck, RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
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One of the selling points is it does not work harden.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Fox #1286207 11/05/2018 3:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Fox
If you do bend and make your own lines, get a quality double flare tool. It will save you A LOT of aggravation and cursing.

Suggestions on the best and most inexpensive place to obtain one? Good brands that will do the job w/o creating more problems and frustration AND not break the bank? A quick google was showing sets upwards of $300. I could pay for a pro to do it if I was going to buy that tool.

On another thought... any suggestions on cleaning/reusing my existing lines? Initial thought was to replace, but now I'm thinking a rehab may be route I go.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Originally Posted by aggie jon
. .
. .
On another thought... any suggestions on cleaning/reusing my existing lines? Initial thought was to replace, but now I'm thinking a rehab may be route I go.

Go with your initial thought - replace.

See what people cost for a "tool set" that is the minimum set needed for your job.

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Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Steel brake lines rust from the inside, too. Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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'Bolter
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Without putting a very tiny camera in the lines, there is no way to tell if they are badly corroded inside. I am casting another vote for copper nickel lines. I used them and they seal easier too. The problem I had with th cheap flaring set was that the clamp was not strong enough to securely hold the line in place. The more expensive tool does the job.

Last edited by truckernix; 11/05/2018 6:39 PM.

1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


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Bolter
Bolter
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You possibly can “borrow “ the tool from Autozone or O’Reilly auto parts stores.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
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'Bolter
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Eastwood sells some good brake line tools. You will need a double flare tool, a bender and a tube cutter. They also sell the tubing & fittings, which can be bought locally.. https://www.eastwood.com/tools/brake-tools.html?limit=all


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
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Even your basic Imperial brand double flare kit with the little buttons will do the job, try to avoid the really cheap imported flare kits.

I've used the Easwood lever type flare kit and also a similar one form Fed hill, and one from Brakequip.
The Eastwood one is lower quality, the dies and blocks are not finished as nicely, it's still a functional tool.
Fed Hill was expensive, very functional. http://store.fedhillusa.com/flaringtools.aspx
Brakequip a good balance of price, quality, and also very functional, this is the one I have/keep and use regularly. http://brakequip.com/products/tools/flaring-tools/


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 544
A
Shop Shark
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I know they corrode from the inside too. That's why I was leaning to replace. So, looking at the flaring tools, what is the typical die used? I see DIN, 37*, 45*....I know it depends on the fitting, but what is most common.

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All you need for the original truck and any likely upgrades is 1/4” (possibly 3/16”) 45 degree double flare.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 544
A
Shop Shark
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Originally Posted by Grigg
All you need for the original truck and any likely upgrades is 1/4” (possibly 3/16”) 45 degree double flare.

Thanks as always Grigg!!

Joined: May 2018
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5
New Guy
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Another vote for copper nickel lines... It's even easy enough to bend and flare the lines from under the truck so you can have a really clean install that only you and your wheel guys will appreciate


1953 3100 Mariner blue (some anyway)
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'Bolter
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Jon, Don't be intimidated with making lines. If you have average mechanical aptitude you can accomplish the job. I am also in the copper nickel camp, the metal bends/flares way easier than other products. The real nice flaring tools exceeded my budget. A run-of-the-mill USA made Sears Craftsman flaring tool (~$40) has worked satisfactorily for me provided that the lines are clamped into the die REAL tight before you start flaring. Paul


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