The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Called the junkyard about a 14 bolt

I haven't been to the junkyard since the Chinese steel panic. I knew that the yards sold everything, many closed or turned into recyclers. I can't blame them, we sold everything possible, too.

Called one of my former haunts checking on a 14 bolt full floater to put in my 52. The man said he couldn't look one up without an application. (Dang computers!) Told him that was going to take some work on my end, that the last time I went looking I went to the rack with a tape measure. He assured me that must have been several years back. I guess I have outlived my era.

So, I am without a clue about an application, and am hoping someone here can chime in and help.

14 bolt full floater. 3.42 gears. 3/4 or 1 ton with single wheels. Drum brakes. Leaf springs (somewhere I read that they are still on a 36" frame).

This all started as a brake upgrade gone awry, wanting to get rid of the Huck brakes.

have you considered changing over to Bendix brakes? Dave

If you are looking to upgrade to disc brakes, check this out. http://www.tsmmfg.com/Rear%20Disc/2630eatonl.html Jon

Don’t believe you’ll find what you want with single wheels on it, but you can install single wheels on an axle that had duals.
Also don’t think you’ll find one with exact same spring spacing as your old truck.

Much info about swapping a 14 bolt into an AD truck here.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread.../14-bolt-axle-swap-info.html#Post1249600

A Square body 73-87 GM 3/4 ton SRW may work. Depending on your wheel a spacer may be needed or not. I used a 75 chevy 3/4 ton 14 bolt in my 1946 3/4 ton. Perches will need to be moved and maybe shock location mounts. I got a 3.73 rear gearing which may be more common. I could not use cab and chassis duals as the perches cannot be moved out on the axle enough. Maybe a full size pickup dually axle may work, dunno.

The thread link I provided earlier does explain how to use a Cab and Chassis 14 bolt and how to move the spring perches, also swap to a shallower offset drum if you like, makes more room to bleed the brakes.

I’ve measured the various 14 bolt axles and evaluated the different brake options and combinations possible with the axles from various applications.
If you want to keep the tires same spacing as stock then I strongly believe the Cab and Chassis axle is the best fit in a 48-54 truck.

The local salvage yard I frequent has their inventory online. Point and click the make, model, and part, then get a list of what they have. I’ve used iron multiple occasions. There is also search engines that you can look at salvage yards across the country..

Grigg, your thread has a lot of useful data in it. Thanks for sharing. It's going to take some time to wade through.

According to my calculations, width is going to need be 64.25" to 65.25". That is with 16 x 6 GM wheels wearing 7.50-16 tires. That centers 9" of tire in the 12" wheel well. One thing that I am looking for is a listing of widths. With the popularity of the 14 bolt I believe such a page exists.'

The original Eaton axle and the 14 bolt Cab and Chassis axle are within 1/8” of same width, 62-5/8”. Original tires and wheels work great, no reason they wouldn’t. Later model wheels will too, (not real modern though) they’re usually about 1/2” inset from center of wheel.

The wheels I have are 1" offset. Looks like I could make spacers and use 4" studs, avoiding sectioning the housing. Now I have to track down a differential. Thanks

1/2" difference on one side is probably not an issue, also better to skip spacers if possible.

Yes, this resource, linked early in my thread about the 14 bolt swap. Lots of good info but some questions left unanswered, and some measurements listed differ slightly from my own measurements.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/

Went to a friendlier yard today. There are no yards in the area with 3.42 gears. He found some in the surrounding states, but at a cost of $600 minimum plus shipping he didn't recommend them. There 3 in the area with 3.73 gears, priced $375-400. Definitely time to go scrounging the local ads. I had printed out the chart from https://www.roundforge.com/articles/14-bolt-axles-differences-between-srw-drw-and-cc . It gave him something to look up. After selling everything that wasn't nailed down to China, they are finally getting some vehicles back in stock. But with the area economy just now starting to grow, demand for used parts is still high. Many yards are still bare, parting out cars as soon as they cross the scale, and selling the parts while they are still warm.

I’ve bought a few, think $250 is most paid for a real clean one from under a little used RV.
Lots of 4.56, some 4.10, and 3.73 is quite hard to find, I did find one to try.
Any faster gears seems better to buy new than hunt used unless extra lucky.

I looked at new gears. They come in 3.42 and 3.21. I think I need counseling.

Don’t get to excited about fast gears without better brakes and more power.
What do you have for an engine?

My seat of the pants feeling is a 235 or 228 in a 1 ton is good with 4.10, and depending on location, driving style, and what you haul or not then 3.73 might be OK. After that probably need more engine and pretty sure more modern brakes would be appreciated.

Grigg - 235 with a 3/4 race cam, polished and shaved heads, Pertronix. Stock intake, carb, exhaust. It has just enough rumble to notice with a good ear. I have had it turning 4,500 rpm at 100 mph. Timed by my son, the speedo was pegged at 90. I have hauled some heavy load, but am now osing a walker, so the truck's primary work load is to the lumber yard.

My reason for the change is brakes. My 52 has Huck, and I need drums. Last time I checked used drums were $75, no guarantee they could be turned. I had another HO52 from a 69, thought I could swap the brakes & hub. But I found the 69 axle has an extra inch from the backing plate to the axle end. Was considering having the housings cut, but decided to go with the 14 bolt.

I found an error in the chart from
www.roundforge.com/articles/14-bolt-axles-differences-between-srw-drw-and-cc
Using that, I ordered a 14 bolt, 8 lug, full float, SRW from an 04 Silverado 2500 pickup, should be 65" according to the chart. Actual width was 69". That cost me shipping both ways.

Your mistake may have been on the year model. The information might be right for a 14 bolt, now old, but not for the modern AAM axle (also kind of a 14 bolt..)