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| | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 206 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 206 | This is a very elementary question for most of you I'm sure. However learning as I go, I have a question concerning the use of gasket sealant on cork valve cover gaskets on a 283 engine. I want to do everything I can as period correct on my surviver 58 Viking 60 with a 283. Does one need a sealant or just the cork gasket? Thanks for your thoughts | | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,501 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,501 | I don't know about the rest of these folks Pete, but I always seal them at the bottom (where the gasket contacts the head). I use Permatex Aviation sealer. Sealing at the bottom allows for a bit more height. If you don't use any sealer, they'll leak and if you do use sealer they may still leak. Straighten the valve cover sealing surfaces well and while they're not technically correct I use spreaders to help make sure they seal.
~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 206 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 206 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 | Pete,
Another thing that may help is using cork gaskets bonded to a steel core. It's a sandwich with cork as the bread and steel as the lunch meat. Cork is about as low tech as a gasket material can get but in my experience it great for sealing in oil at valve covers and intake manifold front and back ends. It does compress when first installed so a few retightenings are required. It was long ago but I think I remember Chevy switching from offset to parallel valve cover screws during the 1959 model year. If it's the parallel you have Fel-Pro #1649 is the "Steel Core Cork Lam" gasket set that fits.
Have fun!
Ray
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 206 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 206 | Great advise as always. Love this site and community. So helpful | | |
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