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| | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | So for a while I've been looking for suitable gauges for my truck and none of the aftermarket ones look quite right/original. The original speedometer uses a cable and my new transmission has an electronic pickup. I'd like to use an electronic spedometer because it's easier to set and simpler to install. I also want an electronic tachometer and will make one from an original speedometer just the same as I'm doing the spedo. Obviously the original looks original so I'm using as much of it as i can, most importantly the parts you can see. I started with a new VDO spedometer because they are extremely easy to use, the same gauge will take any sort of sensor or electronic input you can imagine and are easy to set. I found some on ebay for less than $50. Here's a picture of all the pieces http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2691216240080251109QoyPURThis is the important part from the new gauge http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2011425000080251109oYrJowold gauge housing, remove the back section. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2618337290080251109jFcMZYBore or cut a 3" hole centered on the existing opening (won't quite clean up existing hole, that's just fine). http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2115636040080251109mFsgGpMake a sheet metal clamp for to hold the back portion of the new gauge housing. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2937379900080251109wfBZibhttp://rides.webshots.com/photo/2143302250080251109nXzkAxhttp://rides.webshots.com/photo/2667015060080251109HbaCsuScrew it in place, be sure so have the gauge clamped in it so it's round and centered. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2127775380080251109VXoPyzhttp://rides.webshots.com/photo/2878800650080251109UMbwjhlooks like this from the inside. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2425128650080251109qUbofqwith the guts http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2829987990080251109lqlLlNWith face plate set in place http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2781954650080251109evcuHjGuess I didn't get a picture of cutting the plastic housing off in the lathe, only need 5/8" of the back portion. Still to do. - Some how remove the LCD display that is glued or taped in place (solvent?)
- Mill the plastic carrier so the LCD can be installed 3/16: higher, it then lines up perfect (size too) with original window
- Drill and tap for the two face plate mounting screws.
- Unsolder push-botton from front of circuit board and resolder to back. (so can set from behind gauge, no hole needed in glass)
- Have new decal made with the exact same layout as electronic gauge face but same style/font as original.
- Assemble with new chrome bezel, gasket, and glass.
- machine plastic pointer hub so original replacement snaps over it.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Here's a similar thread and nicely done conversion. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=655201So you can see I'm not the first to come up with this idea, although for a little while I wondered if my plan was something new... Grigg | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | well no luck getting the LCD for the odometer out, it's really stuck and very very fragile, and has some coating on the front that dosn't like solvent... I didn't mess this one up but I'm out of tricks.
Next plan is make a new center ring with the opening in the right place, there is room to do it and look right.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 15 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | Great job guys! I love that tach Rick! I may just have to get my hole saw out and do the same thing.
Last edited by Whitedog; 04/29/2012 5:18 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 229 | they look great nice work guys. just shows if theres a will theres a way. later MO
MO's 1951 chevy 3100 resto mod project
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,252 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,252 | Grigg,
Are you doing anything to update the other gauge pod? From what I've seen so far, most gauge sellers are still using the pill tube and oil pressure line. Does anyone make a stock looking gauge with modern electric senders? | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | I'm actually not going to use the 4 in 1 gauge at all. I've chosen to use a speedometer modified in the same way to be an electronic tachometer.
All my extra gauges will be mounted elsewhere, probably above the windshield.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | | | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 148 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 148 | Grigg, Thank you for posting these images. Very helpful.
-David
1953 2-Ton GMC
I'm a machinist... because engineers need heroes too.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Sure, no problem.
Realized I never posted details on the donor gauges.
Speedometer is a VDO "Vision" series I think about $50 new on ebay at the time. Part number VDO 1211012341
The tachometer part number is vdo 1211002485 if you want to make a second speedometer housing into a tachometer the same way.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 | I have had the electronic aftermarket gauge cluster for 10 years, it was the newer style with the push button setting rather than the dip switches and the instructions were hard to follow at least for me. First, you have to calibrate the axle ratio then the speedo. I admire what you are trying to do.
Ron, The Computer Greek I love therefore I am.1954 3100 Chevy truckIn the Gallery 2017 Buick Encore See more pix1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | I just came across Speedhut's "Speedbox". It is a driver for mechanical speedometers that uses an electronic signal. So, for guys using Tremec, 4L60e transmissions, etc... it looks like you have an option if you want to keep your original gauge. Speedbox.After some research, it seems that Dakota Digital has a similar device. Dakota DigitalBoth are listed for slightly under 3 bills, which isn't all that out of line considering what a set of high quality replacement gauges go for, the best part is yo keep it looking stock. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Any experience with those?
When I asked about them in the past folks said consider it a last resort, not a desirable option. And they were also expensive. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,488 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,488 | When I looked into these a couple of years ago I was told they were erratic and inaccurate at lower speeds and the whine from them was annoying. I also read that some people had suffered problems with short life and limited guarantees. Another problem was you had to match transmission gears to the unit and accuracy wasn't guaranteed. They were not adjustable. A friend not associated with this forum told me one version now uses gps to make the things more accurate and easier to use, but he said he understood those were prone to lose signal in tunnels, from high buildings, transmission towers, etc so I don't know. The comments about breakage and poor warranties were enough to push me away. Speedhut makes some really good stuff, but this is different from their main line.
~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | No experience with them. I just came across it on Speedhut's websight. Reading some online Forums, it seems like at lower speeds they are a little jumpy. The company claims it's from the factory speedo cable binding. Anyhow they have 3 hook up options. GPS, Speed Sensor, or OBD port.
Last edited by Whitedog; 12/08/2018 1:55 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,488 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,488 | Yes...I believe the speedo cable binding could definitely cause that. In fact, it has always seemed to me the cable should be ignored and the unit should have been designed to mount directly to the speedometer (right where the cable would)...but if the adapter makes an annoying whine noise, I understand why the maker wants it outside the cab. At low rpms, the stepper motors driving these adapters may not have enough "oomph" to turn a cable and a mechanical speedo mechanism with any accuracy. In the electronic speedometer the needle attaches directly to the stepper motor shaft so the thing can be accurate and very smooth. Please take a look at what I'm doing on this...in the electronics section. You'll see the stepper motor controlling the speedo needle is right in the center.
~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 238 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 238 | Really impressive work, thanks for posting. | | |
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