Last week i started from "underneath" by removing cotters and nuts. Jacked engine up some and determined what could be removed.... not much except the right bolt of the 2 center bolts could be pushed up some. The whole cartridge could be pryed off cross member some but not the cover plate to get to the outboard bolts. From "Factory Shop Manual" and talk here about front mounts i knew that the 1 bolt that i could push up in its bore had broken out of its FACTORY CLINCHED position in the engine support plate.
Soooo from "underneath" i went to frontal assault, the bumper, grille, radiator, balencer etc comes off/out. After all this stuff outa way i still had the other clinched bolt to remove to get the mount cartridge out. Best i could figure is put a different nut on the bolt and beat it up to unclinch it. 4 hits with 2 lb. hammer and it was loose. Cleaned up crossmembers etc., aligned parts, ground off few thousands of right center bolt od to get it installed from top. Installed temporary washers to help sink heat away from rubber and tightened center bolts to seat in the engine support plate. With soaking wet rag and running water hose i tacked 1 bolt to support plate and cooled it completely. Then did the other and immediately cooled it. Removed heat sinking washers and good to go. Thanks to Bowtietim from 2012 posting about tacking these bolts to engine support plate gave me the plan to complete the install, "on the road again".
Note, I machined the top edge of rubber mount holder/container to 3/4" overall thickness to have 1/8" clearance between holder and top plate.
I put slots down.
I'm just not ready to remove pan and timing cover, I would even consider removing the center bolts if not loose like i did above to avoid removing oil pan and engine support plate. I'm sure ur experience will be different and i hope easier.
Photos,
https://postimg.cc/gallery/h2xbwabq/
