I have a 53 Chevy with a 235 Engine.. After 4 years in the autobody shop, I just got everything back up and running.
Got the engine running pretty well, but noticed recently getting a watery/coolant substance coming up from the valve cover. Mainly from 3 of the 4 screws on the cover, and wonder why this might be.. Do these screws actually go down to the coolant chamber?
Just not sure why I would see any coolant from these screws, so hoping you guys might have come across this before?
Not the valve cover screws. Pull the dip stick and see if you have water in the oil(it looks like baby poop). You might have a bad head gasket(that is an easy fix) If it is not water in the oil, then you might have a cracked head(not so easy to fix) or, you just need to warm it up to dry the moisture out of the oil(has it been sitting that 4 years with out a good run? So check the oil in the pan first. Good oil in the pan is a good thing.
Thanks, yes I have given it a good run for about a month to shake things loose.... The oil looks good.. Radiator coolant looks fine.. Rusty, but not oily. No signs of bad smoke coming out of tail pipe.. Everything runs pretty smoothly, just noticed some moisture around the valve cover screws.. See pic attached..
Is the breather open? Water vapor could come from many places, IC engines generate about as much water as the fuel they burn, that is why it is best to run 180 or so t'stat, etc.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Ray, it felt like a life time.. yes 4 years..The did it on the side in between insurance jobs, which kept the costs down alot..We had the Truck for over 40 years and really needed ALOT OF WORK.
If you were living in New Orleans now I'd say you just had condensation from cooler temps and high humidity, but in Oakland I would not expect that to be the case. I think I'd remove the valve cover, remove the gasket, clean both the head perimeter and the valve cover inside and out well, replace the gasket and see what happens. After you do this you may (emphasize the word "may") be able to get a better idea where this is coming from. What is the fitting on the side of the valve cover?
One other thing you can do if you have a skil saw (saber saw, call it what you wish), some 3/16" thick aluminum sheet and a metal blade is make some spreaders (like these):
They're about 1/4 inch wide (except for the screw area) and about 13 inches long or so. They bend in the center to spread the downward force and with them you will never have a leak at the valve cover again.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
I suspect you have a 1953 head that has been drilled for a 1954 and later 4 bolt valve cover. I have done this in the past and the screw holes on the drivers side break through into the water jacket. I ended up installing studs with sealant in those holes.
Do a search on Evil-Bay for "valve cover spreader bars". There are dozens of them listed and they prevent the sheet metal distortion and oil leakage that's common on stovebolts. Could there be a seep leak at the water pump that's getting blown back onto the valve cover by the fan? Long term inactivity isn't good for water pump mechanical seals. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Luckily, my four-stove-bolt valve covers do not leak. But, I would use those, if I had warpage leaks.
My original-style 4-screw 235/261 valves cover washers look like the ones in the attachments below (available on-line), but, my "oblong with-points" washers are more symmetrical.
Thank you all for the suggestions. I did open up the valve cover and noticed there was no gasket.. Suspect this could be some of the issue.. Not sure it explains the coolant, but one thing I need to address.
