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#1284345 10/21/2018 4:42 PM
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 394
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Lately been hearing a slight little knock coming from I believe my 235'.eng. I have been tightening up up motor mounts bell housing, exhaust, etc. etc. The strange thing about it is I only here around say 1700 rpm's and then it goes away. In an earlier thread I had a pinging noise which with a new set of points stopped all that. I don't think it is a rod or main bearing even though it could be. Possibly those 2 lifters I talked about. But when I run the engine up slow no knock, when I run her up a little quicker a knock becomes present, it doesn't seem to get any worse. I change the oil at about every 3000 miles with 6 qts of Valvoline 10W 30.... Need a bailout here Bolters. Thank you..

Joined: Feb 2004
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Some knocks are present only at a "float" condition, neither pulling or coasting like right before a shift to the next higher gear happens. If that describes your noise, it's like being a little bit pregnant- - - - - -things ain't going to get any better! A rod knock can be a light "double-tap" noise at a steady RPM and no load. Worn or loose main bearings make a slower, deeper "thump" noise mostly while accelerating which goes away as the load on the engine decreases.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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'Bolter
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Glad to here your response there Ol buddy, now I feel a little better about my knocking problem. It will even knock a little as you rev up to 1700 rpm's in neutral and in gear also.Now, not to start a Big over rated conversation but are any other of you Bolters have my same cituation? The only thing I ever really changed when I assembled the rod caps was some 3/8" 12 point locking nuts torqued to 45 ft. lbs. I believe the original 3/8" nut had some sort of a safety keeper on it? I guess those were pretty good too? Anyway thanks..........

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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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The small sheet metal nuts were called "Palnuts". They didn't really accomplish anything, and I would find most, if not all of them buried in the sludge at the bottom of the oil pan on a lot of stovebolt engines. A properly-torqued rod nut stays in place three days past forever, and one that's not torqued properly doesn't, no matter what sort of locking device is used. 45 ft/lbs. of torque is exactly right for a 3/8-24 rod bolt, with either locknuts or regular ones. What oil clearance did the bearings have when you assembled the rods?
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 394
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Just checked my book on the rod bearing clearances, and it was showing .002" to .0025",the mains were a little bit more .0025" to .0003". the engine runs normally about 30 lbs. of oil pressure until she gets a little warmed up. , I drive it daily to my work about 20 miles round trip, wished it got better mileage ( 17 MPG ) its worth it to me. Here in California gas is coming up on $4.00 a gallon. Thanks for the advise and help....

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,049
How about an exhaust manifold leak? They can sound like a knock.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by klhansen
How about an exhaust manifold leak? They can sound like a knock.

I can confirm that. A cracked exhaust manifold on my Astro van sounded for all the world like a rod knock.


1951 Chevy Panel Truck
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You're running right at the upper limit of what I'd consider to be acceptable for a new assembly. I prefer clearances in the .0015"-.002" range if possible. You might want to consider going to a slightly thicker oil, maybe a 15W-40, to give a little more cushioning effect between the bearings and the crankshaft. Try at least one oil change using a straight 30 weight oil like Rotella to see if the noise changes or goes away altogether. Unless you're way north in California, running 15-40 or 20-50 shouldn't cause any sluggish cold starts like could happen up in the great frozen yankee reservation.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!

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