| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
7 members (Otto Skorzeny, Samantha, MNSmith, Phak1, cmayna, CATMAN, Gray_Ghost),
62
guests, and
1
robot. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,154 Posts1,056,850 Members48,456 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 92 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 92 | I read about putting slots up, but not in Gm manual i can find??? Heres mine coming out of holder, slots down..... i believe its original from factory as this thing was parked in 1977 and barn stored since. So do i put slots down or up tomorrow? https://postimg.cc/gallery/2y4dwtrk6/Heres whats left of the rear mounts. https://postimg.cc/gallery/1zeu31zgm/ | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,748 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,748 | Fig 20 in the manual, shows the "slots" up. The cross section is not too tough to see. Thanks to the Old Online Chevy Manual Project.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 92 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 92 | I noted that some time ago, with all the details in that illustration, slots weren't indicated with arrows or text like everything else was. I don't think it makes a difference so i put my slots down. Thanks 4 bring it up. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 | Years ago I removed one I know had never been changed (this being around 1975 or so) and the slots were facing down. I made myself a note of it since it differed from the shop manual and that's how I've done it since. Just be certain to use the right washers on the bottom side since larger ones can stop all movement and you don't want that.
~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 92 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 92 | Years ago I removed one I know had never been changed (this being around 1975 or so) and the slots were facing down. I made myself a note of it since it differed from the shop manual and that's how I've done it since. Just be certain to use the right washers on the bottom side since larger ones can stop all movement and you don't want that. Right!, i changed my originals with new, they are sae's and mine were badly battered, hammered and been through the wringer! Must be alot of forces in action down there. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 92 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 92 | re; Hammered center bolt washers. Heres a photo of the 1's i took out, i believe they're original to day built. The od measures rch more than 13/16". Remember these nuts & bolts are tight to 7/16 nft torque specs. They are not compressing the mount rubber like the outboard bolts are. Outboard bolts are snug tight only. washers, https://postimg.cc/gallery/2a2hxsvnq/ | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,298 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,298 | We sent a man to the moon. Some of those guys probably worked on a Stovebolt truck or two.
Why can't someone come up with a simple design, modern material motor mount?!
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | |
|
|
| |
