I just changed the rear seal on my 216. I left the top rope in and just shimmed it out with 2 steel strips from a wiper blade. I put a new Felpro rope in the bottom half. I did everything right, set the seal as best as possible, left the ends just a tad long then removed the bearing and torqued up the cap without the shims so as to seat the seal. Pulled off the cap, trimmed the rope flush, replaced and lubed the bearing and torqued the cap to 105 ft/lbs. When I first installed the cap without the bearing and shims I noticed the crank would not turn with a long pry bar against the flywheel. I loosened the cap bolts just a tiny amount and the crank turned. When I reinstalled the cap with bearing and shims, same thing, crank won't budge. I lubed up the rope seal before installing the cap.
I put the pan back on, filled the oil, stomped on the starter pedal and nothing but a hum from the starter and a warm battery. I am still running 6 volt, never had problems and no interest in changing to 12 volt.
My next move is to tie the old girl to my truck and pull her around for a while in 1st gear to hopefully loosen things up. Then try the starter, and if still too tight I'll turn on the key and see if it'll fire on the rope. If it starts I guess I'll just let her run for a while and start parking on a hill until things are normal.
You're getting ready to burn up a crankshaft. Change both halves of the seal or at least remove one of the shims you installed. I've heard of the shim trick, and even attempted it a couple of times over the past 50-something years. So far, I'm batting a thousand- - - - -it's NEVER worked. Do it once, do it right, and you won't have to do it over. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
There must be something caused the clearance to change. When you pulled the seal out, did you need to loosen the other main bearings? That crankshaft should turn with hands on the flywheel, no need to use a pry bar. Not a real close fit on these old engines. I would pull the pan and look to make certain nothing is locking the crankshaft then I would remove the new seal( I know backward motion) and replace the main bearing cap in place. As you torque it try turning the assembly. You will know when it gets tight,Find out why. If it is free without the seal, then try a different rope seal. Try to lube it between the crank and seal before you put on the main bearing cap. Then you get to do the process of torque all over again. If it will turn, then put the pan on and fill with oil. It should work.
“I left the top rope in”, don’t do that! Get a Sneaky Pete and do it right.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
