The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Leaf Springs and Steering

A couple months ago, I put new leaf springs on the front of my truck (1956 Chevy ½ ton). The steering was greatly improved but the front end was uneven. I tried everything trying to even it out and find the cause, but no luck. Both leaf springs had a 5/8” thick steel block under them (in addition to the tapered camber shim). Just to see what would happen, I removed both of these blocks (leaving the camber shims in place). The truck sits much more evenly now, but the steering is horrible. It has more wander in it than before and the steering wheel is way off center. Before I dive into it again, can anybody suggest what may have happened here?

Hy joeflanagan, firstly a small correction, those shims are caster shims not camber shims. Removing two pieces of material of the same thickness, one piece from each side should not have changed the unevenness of the front end. If all of the joints in the steering components are in good condition and everything is tightened to specification the truck should not wander around. I would check out the condition of all components, steering box, kingpins, drag link ends, tie rod ends, leaf spring shackles and spring bushings and replace any worn parts, also check your tire pressures. Once you have everything in good condition, take the truck to an old school alignment shop and have them check the axle specifications and correct if needed and do an alignment. That should correct any problems, hope that helps.

First, check the steering gear to see if it's on the "center point" with the wheels straight ahead. There's an area of zero clearance right in the middle of the sector gear that needs to be adjusted for the proper preload as the gear passes through the center of its travel, and that point must correspond with the center of the wheel travel side to side. The steering gear preload is adjusted by disconnecting the drag link and turning the gear through its full travel, and adjusting the screw opposite the output shaft to get a 10 inch/pound rise in turning effort at the steering shaft center nut as the gear passes over center.

If the wheels are not pointing straight ahead at the center point of the gear, something about the drag link/tie rod relationship is worn or bent. On a stovebolt, there's no way to adjust the centering of the wheels without fabricating an adjustable drag link.
Jerry

Thanks for the responses. Tie rod ends are relatively new, as is drag link. Kingpins and bushings were replaced not long ago. I always had a little freeplay in the steering but this is much worse than before. What really stands out to me is how much better the steering was after I replaced the leaf springs--and how much worse it was when I took out the blocks beneath them. I have done the steering adjustment that Hotrod Lincoln describes in the past. I just don't understand how disconnecting the leaf springs and re-installing them (minus the blocks) could result in the steering being so out of whack. Anyway, I'm going to do the steering adjustment this weekend and see if everything is good after that.

I'm also thinking I may have gotten the axle off center but if the pins in the bottom of the leaf springs went into the holes in the axle when I put it together, it's centered . . . right???

You changed the caster angle by removing the blocks, this also moves the axle center line. It takes very little center line movement to change the steering gear center line. Make sure the space blocks you took out don't have offset hole / pin locations.

Likely you have 2 degree wedges, might need to jump up to 4 degree wedges. The steering should come back to center and the feel will be more solid. I have been down this road with my truck, I had 3/4" blocks and removing them did just as your is doing now.

Any time you raise the rear or lower the front, the caster changes, less caster angle to looser the truck drives. Combine that with an off center gear box, it starts to get spooky at highway speeds.

Did the truck come with the blocks from the factory?

OK, thanks. Are you saying that I should put in 4 degree wedges and leave the blocks out? Or put the blocks back in and go up to a 4 degree wedge? I doubt the blocks came from the factory. They look like they were rough cut out of something. Edges are all jagged, etc.

I would try the 4 degree without spacers. Each truck is different and yours may need more then someone elses due to tire size, weight, or spring strength. When they were new, everything was equal, 50 to 70 years later, nothing is equal.

Joe

OK, thanks

Pretty often, the single steering arm that the front of the drag link attaches to can get bent from running up against a curb or encountering some other road hazard. That results in the steering gear being off center and the wheel off level. We used to have to bend that arm (cold- - - -never heat it!) to get the steering wheel level and the gear on the minimum clearance position while the vehicle tracks straight ahead.
Jerry

Some things I learned messing with my truck. A flat level floor is my friend. Measure from the same place each time. Uneven left and right sides..can be bent bumper mounts. Toe in can affect wander(started with toe out that was fun). Not all springs have the same arch. You can install the spring with the offset "center" bolt forward on one side and backward on the other side. Adjustable Drag link can be good or bad(depends if it is adjusted properly. The Pitman arm can be bent You can have the tie rod end on one side too close and that will put the other end farther out(count turns) Places to measure, include but not limited to, 1, Front frame rail to ground, at the end if not damaged to the floor. Is the left the same as the right. 2, From the front shackle top pivot to the axle mount, is that the same as the other side. 3, Is the drag link parallel to the floor(it should be if truck is pointed straight ahead) If the truck frame is level(same height left and right) then the bumper mounts are not, adjust the mounts. That will change the look and the reference you set the fenders to. And the grill and the centerline and..maybe the hood. Find one reference that works for you and mark it. Use it again and again, and again. That flat floor is a good thing. H.R.Lincoln knows some stuff. His help has never let me down. One more thing, a loose kingpin, is evil. I know I still have one. My spindle is worn. That lets the whole thing drift about. Not much but some days I get around just fine, otherdays, I wander and squeal a bit in low speed turns. New springs should have the same arch. That should result in the same left and right frame height You can measure from the back of the wheel arch if you need to. Just measure the same place on each side(6 inches back from the spring pivot bolt works for me. Any others have some ideas? Love to hear them.
Steve