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| | | | Joined: Mar 2016 Posts: 28 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2016 Posts: 28 | I've removed the rear cap completely and loosened and dropped all the other caps 1/2". Clutch is fully depressed, but I can't get the crank to budge one bit.
Starter shouldn't interfere if not engaged, so what's left? My next step is to loosen off the pressure plate, maybe clutch is the culprit? Any other ideas? Thought this would be simple. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,991 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,991 | Pistons need to come down with the crank, friction of rings in the bore, also the crank bearings are a close fit and need a little wiggle. I assume your working on a straight six. If it's a V8 the timing chain needs to be removed.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 | Some folks have been able to work the upper rope seal out then use a tool called a sneaky Pete to squeeze the new one back in. If that won';t work for you, you're going to have to move the entire transmission back atleast 3/4" inorder for the tranny's pilot shaft to pull out of the pilot bearing as well as some other procedures. This Link shows the procedure to replace the bearings in-vehicle which is the same basic principle for dropping the crank to replace the seal. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I would be careful how much the front of the crank drops. You don't want to have the timing gear slip a tooth. I have replaced the seal with the engine in place on two vehicles but I pulled the transmission back. I also adjust main bearing shims to get down to the minimum clearance. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,836 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,836 | You should be able to make the crank drop 1/8" or so by prying on opposite sides of the flywheel ring gear, which is plenty to replace the rope seal. I usually back the main bearing bolts off about 2 turns- - - -can't imagine why it would be necessary to drop the other main caps 1/2"!
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,962 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,962 | I have replaced a lot of rope seals with the Lisle Sneaky Pete. The trick to replacing the seals is trimming and packing the rope correctly and make sure you don't have a thread between the cap and the block. | | |
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