Not a smart a$$ remark but the floor looks very solid so why remove it? If you have access to a plasma cutter it would remove it with way less damage than breaking spot welds. The 90* break at the front is a perfect guide and a straight edge across the back would leave very little clean up. There is also a hump in the floor pan itself which would have to go if a completely flat floor is your goal. Sure hope it's not for bucket seats.Pics are of the floor in a 52 Suburban (same floor as a panel) that was so rusty the riser had to be removed for a replacement floor pan to be welded in. The after pic shows the riser back in and with a new tip on the plasma cutter it's only 1/16" lower than factory. The floor is viewed from the underside but shows the "bump" that is there even if the riser is removed.
Thanks. I just need to remove the top panel (the horizontal part), not the entire riser. The driver's side has been badly butchered by a previous owner. It would be much easier to repair if out of the truck.
In line with coilover and with your own assessment. One option would be to just cut a small part of the top off, a margin around the square hole. Then work on that piece and reweld it back on. Keep in mind you may not have to cut all the way out to the non bent area if you are able to reach in to work on the gentle/peripheral dents with a dolly and hammer or pry bar more easily after you cut it open. Cut this top off with a 1/16 thk wheel so as to create a small reweld gap. They do sell a .040 thick but it is shatter prone sometimes. It would be the best however. You can cut out two or three small areas if that is better.
Another option: It is also worth a try to fix the bends and the square hold flange without removing anything. 2 x 4's or combo of wood and metal levers can be used, with patience, to restore the shape almost completely due to the access thru the square hole.(unless access is closed off by the design of the pan). Some welding of any rips would be required. Just think on these options. These ideas are just reinforcing what you already know. You may develop much better solutions as you go than we can from our house.
Not sure if a plasma cutter would leave a small reweld gap. I have cut out dented areas, fixed them and used them as the patch, several times. When I do this I also place a inner flange to weld to. In your case, it seems you could reach in and use a copper backing when rewelding to eliminate blow outs.
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Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
